Biologique Recherche (BR) is certainly having a moment on social media. The brand is no where near new they've just found an Instagram media spotlight. Founded over forty years ago by Yvan, Josette and Philippe Allouche, a biologist, a physiotherapist and a doctor with a vision for products for pros who were dissatisfied with current treatments. The products have a high concentration of extracts with no artificial fragrance. They have a massive amount of products and are more exclusive being sold in boutiques. I find the number of products can be quite overwhelming but you can get a free consultation from all their sales representatives (even online). Toska European Spa is a popular retailer and Rescue Spa is the one I have used. I find the UK site to be the most helpful in descriptions versus the US one if you want to research on your own. Check it out HERE.
Some of the first products I started with is the Masque Vivant & Masque VIP O2. The ultimate masking duo that you see all over Instagram. They work well together as a double masking experience or on their own. Masque Vivant is the best for problem skin. Details per BR:
Masque Vivant is one of our most celebrated masques and is an intensive treatment, perfect for oily tendency and dull Skin Instants. This multi-functional mask, rich in antioxidants, will purify the epidermis, regulate oil secretion, unclog and tighten pores, as well as revitalise your skin. It also contains lactic acid, which is one of the most popular Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and a powerful ingredient that helps reduce acne breakouts and minimise water loss. Leaving a mattified, clean and healthy skin.
For: Seborrheic, dull and/or less toned Skin Instants.
Key Ingredients:
- Regulating and purifying agent: Yeast Extract.
- Soothing agents: Cucumber and Witch Hazel Extracts.
- Moisturising agent: Lactic Acid.
Masque VIP O2 is for energizing and oxygenating. Details per BR:
Masque VIP O2 is a refreshing and oxygenating anti-pollution mask. Containing marine elastin to moisturise, White clay to purify, BR oxygenating complex to brighten, Essential fatty acids of omega 3 & 6 to moisturise and cucumber extract to calm and soothe we would recommend that everybody has this mask at home to enjoy in times of stress, illness, pollution or just to oxygenate. Whilst cell regeneration and revitalisation are its main attributes, it will also tone your skin and remove dark circles under the eye area.
For: Stressed and traumatised Skin Instants & Dull and devitalised Skin Instants.
Key Ingredients:
- Moisturising agent: Marin Elastin.
- Purifying and lightening agent: White Clay.
- Oxygenating agent: Specific BR Oxygenating Complex.
- Relipidating agent: Essential Fatty Acids Complex.
- Soothing agent: Cucumber Extract.
Masque Vivant is great at purifying and unclogging pores. It just gives you that revitalized deep pure feeling. I don't have acne or problem skin anymore but I do love it on my t zone while using Masque VIP O2 on my cheeks and under my eyes. Masque Vivant is great at tightening and making my pores look smaller. It also helps control oil for those who need that help. I know many problem, combo, oily or acne prone people just love this stuff. It’s quite an effective mask for problem skin. The downside is the scent. It smells terrible. The yeast gives this the worst stinky scent. One thing about Biologique Recherche is that they do not mask their scents with artificial fragrance which I love but some of the ingredients they use are just not for everyone if you can't handle a natural scent that may be not pleasant. Masque Vivant has a sticky thick gel like texture with a cocoa brown color. It is truly the king of purifying masks if that's what you're looking for.
Masque VIP O2 has a hydrating creamy texture and it's great for soothing, moisturizing and helping revive the skin with the oxygenation. This is targeted to people with stressed and dull skin types but I think it works well for everyone. It’s also great for those who live in city environments. I like it either all over or under my eyes and the cheeks while using Masque Vivant in the t zone as mentioned above. They make a really killer duo. They're pricey but mine have lasted quite a while. These are my favorite two masks by BR out of the ones I have tried. I think they're so popular because they tend to work for everyone and are effective.
One of the things Biologique Recherche is most famous for is Lotion P50. This is the acid toner of your dreams. Details per BR:
There are four different versions of Biologique Recherche’s Lotions P50 available in the UK; the Lotion P50, the Lotion P50V, the Lotion P50W and the Lotion P50 PIGM400. Each one provides the same core benefits, but their formulations change slightly to suit each and every Skin Instant.
The Lotion P50 is the purest and strongest formula out of all our exfoliating lotions. Additionally, this version contains specific active ingredients such as thyme essential oil and myrrh for their purifying, toning, and antiseptic properties. Due to its composition and high concentration of acids that penetrates the epidermis quickly, the Lotion P50 is only suitable for thicker Skin Instants, with or without seborrheic tendency.
The Lotions P50 are Biologique Recherche’s unique acid toners; the fruit of 30 years of reflection and experience. These balancing and exfoliating lotions speed up the epidermis’ natural exfoliating process and the reconstruction of the epidermal shield. The fortified epidermis can then fulfil its protective functions completely, enhancing the skin’s self-regeneration potential. The Lotion P50 ritual is a key stage in all Biologique Recherche skin care programmes; it not only exfoliates, but it also purifies, regenerates and maintains the pH of the epidermis.
The chemical exfoliation of the skin is a procedure that happens thanks to the topical application of a cocktail of hydroxy acids. All Lotions P50 contain a potent combination of AHA, BHA and PHA exfoliants: lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and gluconolactone, to act as a chemical exfoliator. As its name indicates, the Lotions P50 gently renews the skin over 50 days – ‘P’ stands for peeling and ‘50’ stands for 50 days – which represents about two epidermal cycles, for a gentle yet effective exfoliating process.
For: Seborrheic and/or Keratinised Skin Instants.
Key Ingredients:
- Exfoliating, moisturising and reconditioning agents: Poly, Alpha, and Beta-Hydroxy-Acids, Cider Vinegar, Phytic Acid, Sulphur.
- Purifying and sebum-regulating agents: Horseradish, Magnesium Chloride, Vitamin B3, Burdock, Sorrel, Onion, Myrrh and Myrtle Extracts.
Lotion P50 is the King of all acid toners. It was around long before acid toners were popular and a household name. I honestly don't know if it's the original acid toner (it possibly could be) but it is the most famous and well known. I discovered it by watching Caroline Hirons and I kept thinking one day I really need to try this P50 she talks about. It took a while for me to get used to the vinegar scent. It's not the strongest vinegar scented product I've tried, but it's not a minimal scent. I have become quite used to it after a few years and don't even notice it anymore. The results of this acid toner are unparalleled. You have AHAs, PHAs and BHAs to both exfoliate and resurface the skin, increase cellular turnover, moisturize and unclog pores to help keep the complexion glowing and clear.
It comes in a few sizes but I like the 5.1 fl oz size as it's a better deal than the little one and I can still use it before it goes bad. I can never finish a big one before it goes bad even though it is the best deal. It's not a cheap toner but effective and quality mean more to me than a cheap price. This is the acid toner I come back to time and time again. Nothing else does compare to it. It's a cult favorite for a reason. This is what made me give up acid serums and prefer an acid toner for my main use. This one is around 12.8% for an acid concentration. The general range of the P50 toners is 9-13%. I have tried samples of a few others. P50 1970 is the Phenol version only available in the US. It's the first from the brand. Phenol is banned in the EU and it gives this numbing sensation to the face (it's the active ingredient in Chloraseptic). Phenol is also an exfoliant and has antimicrobial properties. Some people actually like the 1970 version for the 'burn' sensation it can give their skin. Honestly this one was too harsh for me but I know there are many who have more oily or acne prone skin and just adore this version. It's way too harsh for sensitive skin.
P50V is one I need to try again. It's got around a 10-11% acid percentage but it doesn't have the strong vinegar scent. It's more mild so it's great for most minus sensitive skin. It also has more antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Think of it as the moderate version. P50W is the gentlest of the range more suitable for sensitive skin. It has a 9-10% acid concentration. I typically use P50 the most about 2-3x a week depending. BR lists that you can use P50 up to 2x a day. I personally have never been able to use it that often without getting sensitized so I would say listen to your skin and do what works for you without over doing it. There's no magic number for acids on how much or little you can or should use them. It's really dependent on the person.
I also have used Lotion P50 PIGM400 which is for pigmentation. Details per BR:
For: Dull, pigmented Skin Instants.
The Lotion P50 PIGM400 is the latest formulation and is enriched with both the exfoliating active ingredients of the Lotion P50 and the brightening agents and antioxidants of the PIGM400 range. Thanks to a combination of flavonoids and wasabi extracts, this version of the Lotion P50 also helps regulate melanin synthesis while respecting and protecting the skin. This is a complete solution that helps to recover a luminous and radiant skin with an even and lightened complexion. Ideal for Skin Instants with dull complexions and hyperpigmented marks.
Key Ingredients:
- Exfoliating agents: Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids, Australian Finger Lime Extract, Beta-Hydroxy-Acids, Poly-Hydroxy Acid, Phytic Acid, Levulinic Acid.
- Purifying agents: Magnesium Chloride, Magnesium Sulfate, Meadowsweet Extract.
- Lightening and anti-spots agents: Palmaria Palmata Extract (Red Algae), Complex of Fruits Titrated In Flavonoids and AHAs.
- Antioxidant agents: Vitamin B3, Wasabi Extract.
This one is more gentle with a 9-10% acid range and higher pH. It has more brightening and pigment reducing ingredients in addition to the acid blend. This one is pretty gentle. I'm able to use it more often but in all honesty I didn't notice really any main difference as far as brightening so once I ran out I switched back to P50. I am going to grab P50V next as I'm curious about long term results with that one. There are some like @beamwonder on Instagram that have really gotten into the differences on these toners if you want to read more specific details.
Crème Masque Vernix was instant love for me. This is the most amazing healing overnight treatment. Details per BR:
Hailed as a ‘true marriage of science and beauty’, Crème Masque Vernix virtually reproduces the original composition of the newborn’s vernix – the first epidermal protective barrier at birth – thanks to a selection of active ingredients rich in lipids, proteins and antioxidant peptides. Vernix, a sebaceous waxy substance, has powerful healing properties, balances the pH of the skin and inhibits the growth of bacteria for a multi-pronged approach to skin replenishment. This 2-in-1 product helps recondition and strengthen deficient and/or stressed epidermis by offering it a “second birth”; it can either be used as a mask or a cream, for those in need of an intensive treatment. Thanks to its hydrating, repairing and protecting actions, Crème Masque Vernix reduces transepidermal water loss, repairs the DNA of skin cells damaged by UV rays and minimises the effects of ageing.
For: Deficient and/or stressed Skin Instants.
Key Ingredients:
- Moisturising and restructuring agents of the barrier function of the epidermis: Cell Oligopeptides, Soya Lecithin, Complex of Ceramides and Omega 6 and 3 from Raspberry Oil, Luffa Oil, Ceramide Complex, Plant-based Squalane, Lanolin, Cholesterol Sulfate.
- Balancing and repair agents: Placenta Extract, Carob Seed Extract, Yeast Extract.
- Protective and antioxidant agents: Antioxidant Tripeptide, Anti-ROS and anti-RNS Antioxidant.
This is a heavier thicker cream but it's in no means greasy or suffocating. This can be used as a wash off mask or as a night cream. I use this as a night cream. It's expensive and I feel like you're wasting your money washing it off but it does make a nice hydrating cream mask. I don't think you get it's full benefits if you wash it off as well. This is the most soothing and repairing overnight cream. If you're skin is stressed out or in need of some SOS this will fix it overnight. I completely adore this cream. I'm not going to get into the ingredients much as it's really the overall effect I'm looking for in BR products. The cream has no fragrance and it's easily one of my all time favorite night creams. An instant hero product for me.
Just yesterday I learned that BR is reformulating several products to become vegan so they are removing all animal based ingredients across the brand. So the placenta extract and cell oligopeptides in this cream will be replaced. I haven't seen the new version as this is brand new information. I would say stay tuned and I'm sure Instagram will keep us all informed of the new products and how they compare. If you have dry skin or skin that needs a serious moisture, soothing or repairing boost this is one to try. It's life changing. I highly recommend it.
Émulsion Originelle Régénérante is a lighter soothing cream. It's like a heavier lotion or light cream. Details per BR:
The Émulsion Originelle Régénérante Visage is an intensive moisturising emulsion enriched in lipid-restoring active ingredients. Its high content of Vitamin E. will restore your natural protective barrier to offset the drying effects of extreme climatic conditions during the day and regenerate at night. By moisturising your face, this enriched in colostrum and hyaluronic acid emulsion will help reduce the skin’s water loss and prevent skin ageing. A genuine moment of comfort for suffering skin thanks to the soothing mimosa extract; pop it into your emergency travel kit to avoid tightness and sensitivity.
For: Delipidated and/or dehydrated Skin Instants.
Key Ingredients:
- Soothing and softening agents: Mimosa Tenuiflora Extract, Rhmanose-rich Polysaccharides.
- Lipid barrier restoring agents: Macadamia Oil, Botanical Squalane, Virgin Sisymbrium Oil, Sugar Derivative.
- Protective and repairing agents: Vitamin E, Tripeptide antioxidant.
- Moisturising agents: Colostrum, Hyaluronic Acid.
This comes in an airless pump and is fragrance free. I love this as a day cream minus in the super hot humid summer. So for about two months this was too much for me but in general it's a lighter weight cream. It's really soothing and nourishing without being heavy. Again like the Creme Masque Vernix it's just so repairing and soothing. My skin just absolutely loves these two. This was instant love as well. I know they're both expensive but there's just something about them that's absolutely incredible. They manage to soothe, calm and restore my skin like no other creams I have. The textures are really great on these two and I love that they're fragrance free. I will easily repurchase these two creams for life (as long as they don't change too much in the reformulation).
Biologique Recherche also has a line of finishing serums. These can be applied either over or under creams. I grabbed a small version of Sérum Yall O2 because I was curious. Details per BR:
One of our richest Finishing Sérums. Replumping and revitalising, Sérum Yall~O2 will increase and restructure the fullness of the epidermis and lips whilst forming a protective film over the skin. Containing hyaluronic acid and marine collagen, this serum will also fight against dehydration and ageing by reducing the size and depth of lines and wrinkles.
For: All Skin Instants. Ideal for dehydrated or alipidic, mature Skin Instants.
Key Ingredients:
- Antioxidiant and protective agent: Pomegranate Extract.
- Regenerating and healing agents: Hibiscus and Lily Extracts.
- Hydrating agents: Hyaluronic Acid, 10% Marine Collagen, Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF).
- Oxygenating agent: Specific BR Oxygenating Complex, Nanotechnology formulation.
Their serums come in a sealed glass bottle with a plastic dispenser you add on after you open it. You tip them upside down and squeeze the plastic to dispense the product. Serum Yall O2 is easily the most expensive serum I have ever bought. It's quite ridiculous actually. It's got hyaluronic acid, collagen and NMF to hydrate and moisturize while also reviving the skin with the BR oxygenating complex. It's got a creamy thicker glossy texture. It's quite moisturizing and can be a little sticky. I like it below cream as a last step before a seal. I didn't like it over my creams because of the sticky part and I felt like it stuck on my skin longer when under a cream. It's too expensive to let it wear off faster. It's really nice don't get me wrong but it's way too expensive for me to consider repurchasing.
Biologique Recherche also has a line of Quintessential Sérums which are pure formulations designed for specific skin imbalances. You can use them alone or as the site says cocktail up to four serums (I don't know why it picks for that's just what it says). Sérum Placenta was the first I tried. Mostly because I saw it the most on Instagram and I was curious. Details per BR:
Sérum Placenta is an intensive repairing serum. Containing placental biostimulin protein extracts, this healing and regenerating serum can be used to strengthen and re-build the skin. Ideal for post-acne scarring and after peels or any form of epidermal exfoliations. This serum can also be used on the eye area for instant reduction of puffiness.
For: Oily-tendency Skin instants with imperfections.
Key Ingredients:
- Repairing agent: Placenta Biostimulin Proteins Extracts.
This serum has the most watery texture. About 6-7 drops patted into the skin early in your routine was enough. This serum does not smell good at all. Don't expect it to be just kinda bad, it's really bad. It starts off OK but the older it gets the worse it becomes. So by the end of the bottle it's bad. I mention that because scent can affect quite a few people. I bought this to help strengthen the skin barrier. I know many love it for fading acne scarring so it's good for problem and oily skin. It sinks in within a minute so it's really easy to layer. I tried it under my eyes but really didn't notice any depuffing. I don't have acne scarring/PIH to fade so I can't speak to it's effectiveness in that aspect.
I wanted to try it because of the rave online reviews and while I feel it did make my skin overall feel healthier, it may have been the wrong serum for me (Extraits Tissulaires is more for my non-problem/oily/acne type). Plus I have a really hard time with the scent. It's almost not worth it for me. This has effects on my skin like growth factor serums. Placental extracts are considered a type of growth factor. Those are the products that give me that natural glow. That healthy look. You're helping to build a good base. It's a serum for long term use. Now I'm sure this one will change to be vegan and get replaced with a plant extract. I'm curious to see how it changes.
Next I grabbed Sérum Extraits Tissulaires. This seems like it would be good as it's listed as the entry level hydrating serum. Details per Joanna Czech:
Sérum Extraits Tissulaires is a first level of hydration serum and contains cellular oligopeptides to moisturize the upper layers of the skin. This unique serum not only hydrates, but also regenerates and strengthens your skin, preparing it for more powerful treatments. This can be used by all skin types showing the first signs of dehydration, for a luminous result.
For: All Skin Instants.
Key Ingredients:
- Cellular Oligopeptide
This has an ever so slightly thicker texture than Serum Placenta but it's still water light. It sinks in quickly. This uses cellular oligopeptides from embryo extract. Like Serum Placenta it smells bad. It's worlds better than placenta, but it's not great. I do find it tolerable enough to use and repurchase. This is more hydrating than Placenta as well. It's also a growth factor type product and gives you that healthy skin barrier. I feel it does that task well. This is for every skin type. Every one can benefit from this serum. This one has been reformulated and actually has the new description and ingredients online. See below from BR:
Sérum Extraits Tissulaires is our first level of hydration serum and contains a high-performance plant tissue extract to moisturise the upper layers of the skin. This unique serum not only hydrates, but also regenerates and strengthens your skin, preparing it for more powerful treatments. This can be used by all Skin Instants showing the first signs of dehydration, for a luminous result.
- Hydrating agent: Alpine Pink Laurel Plant Extract
I'm curious to see how they compare. I will be picking it up for sure next year once I need another. My goal this year was to branch out into Biologique Recherche this year beyond P50. I'm glad I did. I found two creams I adore and can't wait to venture some more into the serums. P50 will stay a forever hero. I like the masks and I see why they're popular. I'm not a huge masking person right now as I'm too lazy so these two aren't something I use all the time. I love the focus this brand has on interesting ingredients, effectiveness, simplicity, quality and fragrance free products. Plus I love that they have expiration dates on most their packaging. They're pricey yes, but a lot of times I say you get what you pay for. I would say if you're new to the brand you can research it on your own but I would definitely talk to a consultant at some point as it's a costly mistake to get a product not meant for you. Plus the brand has very targeted products for specific concerns. I have one more serum to break open and Creme Biofixine will be my next purchase (the stuff is totally amazing).