Decoding Essences & Layering

If you’ve been following me for any length of time you know I’m an essence nut. Besides serums it’s my favorite step in skincare. I’ve been wanting to write more comparison and helpful informational posts like I used to versus just reviews. So what is an essence? Essences started in Korea with the multi-step skincare routine. Now the Western world has taken over and you see essences in quite a few lines that aren’t Korean. An essence is a more concentrated treatment liquid. It’s a cross between a toner and a serum. They range from almost watery to thick serum like textures.

Essences are more hydrating than a toner. They are an easy lightweight way to layer extra moisture & nutrients in a skincare routine. There are essences for brightening, soothing, hydrating, anti-wrinkle, antipollution, antioxidant-Basically you name a genre of skincare & there’s an essence for it. No matter which type of essence you pick they all add extra moisture to the skin. I love multiple lightweight layers in my skincare routine. It makes my skin hydrated and bouncy. I find these multiple hydrating layers add more moisture than a single heavier product like a cream all without the heavy feel of a cream. Adding a daily essence into your routine is really a beneficial step.

So which essence do you pick? There are so many types now. The marketing world wants to sell you as much as they can so they come up with all kinds of new names and claims for skincare products to get you to buy the next new thing. There are toners, first essences, essences, infusions, ampoules & serums in the lightweight hydrating skincare arsenal. Toners are the water based liquids that have a multitude of purposes depending on the ingredients. They help clean the skin as the last part of a cleansing regimen. I really only use an acid toner now and pretty much skip the non-acid ones. Toners also help balance and hydrate the skin. They can help reduce the pH after cleansing (which is not as necessary if you use a low pH cleanser). They tend to be very water based and there are quite a few that have alcohol in them (though I’m seeing companies start to remove the alcohol as consumer awareness increases).

That’s what led me to essences. They have more concentrated nutrients, added benefits plus they balance and hydrate like a toner. There are essences and now first essences. So the difference is a first essence is to be used right after cleansing. A first essence like SK-II Facial Treatment Essence or Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence is thinner than a traditional essence. It’s like a fancy toner on steroids. It balances and hydrates plus helps the following treatments absorb better. It has added benefits like nutrients more so than a toner. These two in particular by SK-II & Missha are mostly yeast extract which has brightening, hydrating, soothing & antioxidant benefits. You can use these in place of a toner which I pretty much do. They have a watery texture so they feel like a toner and absorb quickly. I know some feel they don’t do anything for them and some really love these two. They do feel like water but they’re really like a toner.

I also use the Amore Pacific Vintage Single Extract Essence like a first essence. It’s great for summer as a balancing one. Kat Burki Goji Essence has 5% lactic acid and makes a great first essence as well. You can skip an acid toner when using this one. I don’t see the need to use both a toner and a first essence. Honestly I’ve been using toners less and less and essences more and more. I only use an acid toner in my morning routine so all non-acid ones have been cut out, unless I’m going acid free that day or at night on occasion. I do follow a first essence with a traditional essence most of the time. These are your more traditional thicker than water texture essences like Su:m37, COSRX, Ground Plan, Olivarrier, Innisfree, Fresh, African Botanics & YOU Skincare.

Infusions are a newer name (hello marketing) but it’s basically just an essence. Infusions are like a toner meets serum which is pretty much an essence. Infusions do have a nice hydrating, slippery texture in general & they tend to be pretty fluid. I actually really like the textures of infusions in general. Some even have oils suspended in them that really add a nice hydrating layer. Fresh Creme Ancienne and African Botanics Infusion are the infusions I have though there are more. YOU Skincare and Siam Seas are called essences and toners (Siam Seas is definitely not a toner) but they are really like infusions.

Marketing and such really make this more confusing than it needs to be. You may read a magazine or blog that tells you a first treatment essence or infusion is different and needs to be used this way but I say do whatever works for you. They’re all the same step in between cleansing and serums and the rest is really just preference. Though if it says use an essence directly after cleansing it’s a first essence. In that case I would use it first because it was designed to help your other products absorb and work better. Using an essence is easy, just shake or pour a few drops in the palm of your hand, rub them together and press into the skin. I like to make a few full sweeps over my face & neck then start pressing into the skin. I feel I get a more even application that way.

After an essence comes your serums and ampoules if you use them. Ampoules are concentrated serums meant to treat certain issues & you use them for a certain period of time. Like as a booster. You can mix an ampoule in a serum. So in essence (like my pun?) cleanse, tone (acid tone really for most), first essence, essence (or infusion), serum and/or ampoule. I follow with misting, oil and finally cream/lotion. I hope this helps with essences a bit. They really are a fabulous addition to any skincare regimen. I’ve found them to be an essential step for me. Once I started using essences there was no going back. They add such a nice nutrient dense hydrating light layer and I can really see the difference in my skin when I use one. When I skip it I feel less plump & hydrated. That goes for a true essence anyway, a first treatment essence really feels like a toner and I don’t notice as much if I skip it. Just like I can skip a non-acid toner and not regret it.

Now there is more to be discussed on when to layer vitamin C serums, acid serums & retinol with essences but that’s for another post (I see a serum layering post coming). I apply acid toner then go about my business for 5-15 minutes before applying a first essence or essence to make my acid toner more effective. I’ll talk about that more in the next layering post with serums and treatments.