Let's finally talk about the EIGHTH DAY Skin Regenerating Serum. I bought this quite a while ago and used it, then they revamped and changed their whole look--even the product formulation. I had a hard time finding the old specs and inci list which also delayed my review. EIGHTH DAY Skin was created by Dr. Tony Nakhla. Per the website Dr Nakhla is 'a board certified dermatologist, dermatologic surgeon, scientist and innovator, Dr. Antony Nakhla is a leading authority in skin cancer treatment, Mohs micrographic reconstructive surgery and wound healing'. This is from the Eighth Day Skin site:
Eighth Day was born when Dr. Nakhla made the connection between the stem cells and nutrient-rich membranes he was using to heal open wounds and the transformative effect the same blend of synthetic bioidentical peptides, growth factors and amino acids could deliver deep within the skin via high-potency topical delivery systems.
Eighth Day formulas are bioidentical – that is, we use synthesized ingredients that are biologically identical to the molecules already found in your skin. By doing so, we speak the language of skin and communicate directly to skin cells in their own native tongue. Harnessing the power of modern skin technology to effect real results.
The Regenerating Serum is essentially an anti-aging serum. It's meant to tackle lines, wrinkles, tone and help improve the health of your skin overall. I was drawn to buy it when it first launched as I was looking heavily into human derived growth factor serums. I wanted to expand my horizons and it popped up on my radar as a new one. I like to think of growth factor serums as healthy skin serums. They really give my skin that overall healthy glow, think almost pregnancy glow. They help reduce irritation for me, give a nice dewy, bouncy more firm look to the skin. It's a subtle look generally from my experience trying different ones. Don't think you're going to start using one and get a miracle. These types of products really require consistent use for at least three months to see more of the effects. I ultimately recommend six months (which is two bottles) before you judge a serum like this. At the time I did not buy two because I wasn't at that stage in my testing with these types of serums. I made that more a requirement for myself a year or two later. You may also find that it's when you stop using the product for a month--you'll see what gains you had have made become lost. That's how you really know if it was doing something for you. That's the best trick I can give you to see if a subtle product is really doing anything. The description for the Regenerating Serum from the site:
The Regenerative Serum with Peptide-Rich Plasma® addresses the 10 visible signs of skin aging to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, while restoring skin tone and texture for healthier, more youthful-looking skin. Formulated by Dr. Antony Nakhla in a clinical setting, our cult serum is a proprietary blend of high-potency, nutrient-rich ingredients formulated to reset your skin, signaling cells toward healing, repair, and renewal.
Introducing the serum that’s as smart as your skin. The Regenerative Serum is an all-in-one highly potent serum that stimulates your own cells to create plump, youthful skin. Formulated by Dr. Nakhla, this groundbreaking treatment features advanced skin science with clinical strength ingredients at highly concentrated levels. Our bioidentical formula is able to penetrate deep into the dermis, where cells are energized and renewal occurs. Nutrient-rich and packed with unparalleled regenerative power, our cult serum is a targeted treatment that addresses environmental stressors and promotes the most visible signs of healthy, youthful-looking skin.
The Regenerative Serum is formulated with Peptide-Rich Plasma®, a proprietary, patent-pending skin-care technology formulated by Dr. Nakhla and composed of 24 bioidentical synthetic peptides, growth factors and amino acids. Delivering potent benefits deep within the skin’s surface.
The old version came in an airless pump with the sparkly white and rose gold metallic accent bottle. I actually really liked their old packaging. It was graphic and fun yet minimal. The texture was a thin gel that wasn't sticky or heavy. It layered well and I enjoyed the texture. I don't remember any discernible scent. I did find the old inci list, see below.
Ingredients Old Version
Water (aqua), Human Stromal Cell Derived Conditioned Media, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water, Acetyl Glutamine, sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9, sh-Polypeptide-11, Propanediol, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Honey, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Cocoate, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
We've got the human cell derived conditioned media, epidermal growth factors (EGF & plant derived), several types of hyaluronic acid, honey and lavender flower water. Simple, yet effective. I did search to find that the type of conditioned media they used was possibly placental. You can read the article HERE. Human derived conditioned media aka growth factor serums usually come from a type of cell such as mesenchymal, adipose, epidermal or placental. There are not the actual human cells in the product, just the harvested proteins they give off in a lab. These types of products are usually expensive to make due to regulations and the overall labor intensive process. If there's human derived growth factors then trust your product will cost you at least $150. EGF naturally occur in the skin. In essence growth factors all stimulate the fibroblasts which help stimulate collagen and elastin production resulting in firmer, plumper skin. Growth factors are healing and help with proliferation as well.
My rudimentary understanding is that human derived media is the proteins harvested from the human derived cells grown in a lab. Growth factors with an sh- before the name is the synthesized protein from a non-human source (plants like barley or corn) but still has similar effects. They're meant to mimic human derived ones. The difference is essentially human derived proteins or plant derived. I've tried both human and plant derived, I will say there's something I find really special about human derived. It seems to be a bit more powerful and I get better results. It also totally depends on the actual formulation. Not all growth factors are equal. I have some human derived ones that don't do anything for me and some that do great things. I did actually find that the EIGHTH DAY Skin Regenerating Serum worked fairly well. I would put it up in my top five human derived growth factor serums. It's a bit more expensive than some others but it seemed to work well and I would've purchased it again. I liked the texture and it was nice, effective.
Now there's a new version. I have yet to try the new version so we'll skim over what may be the differences. The packaging changed. Now it's not an airless pump and is in a dropper style black glass much like a facial oil. Now I love black glass packaging but I hate droppers. Especially when it comes to expensive products like this. A pump is more elegant overall. So I'm definitely not into the new packaging. They also seem to have changed the formulation. Below is the new inci.
Key Ingredients (New Version):
Peptide-Rich Plasma® – A proprietary, patent-pending stem cell technology composed of 24 bioidentical synthetic peptides, growth factors and amino acids.
Hyaluronic Acid – improves moisture and skin plumpness
Niacinamide – reduces redness and inflammation
Glycolic Acid – improves skin texture and reduces enlarged pores
Alpha Lipoic Acid – potent antioxidant and free radical scavenger
Manuka Honey – promotes healing and skin immunity
Nonapeptide-1 – blocks melanin synthesis to target discoloration
Savage Ginger Root Extract and Knotgrass Flavonoids – protects against environmental UV, infrared and blue light damage
GABA – active neuropeptides for healing and repair
Ingredients New Version
Aqua/Water/Eau, Pentylene Glycol, Peptide-Rich Plasma® (sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9, sh-Polypeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, sh-Oligopeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Glutamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lysine HCL, Alanine, Histidine HCL, Arginine, Serine, Proline, Glutamic Acid, Threonine, Valine, Leucine, Glycine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Taurine), Glycerin, Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract, Tripeptide-1, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Honey, Nonapeptide-1, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Phytosphingosine, Sea Whip Extract, Niacinamide, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Aminobutyric Acid, Adenosine, Thioctic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Bacillus/ Soybean/Folic Acid Ferment Extract, Polysorbate 20, Allantoin, Caprylyl Glycol, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dextran, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum.
The new formula seems way more active packed adding in niacinamide, glycolic acid, ginger root and knotgrass flavonoids and glycerin. The main base of this serum is about the growth factors, peptides and amino acids. It seems the human derived conditioned media is gone in the new version. They have the patent pending Peptide-Rich Plasma® listed which has growth factors and amino acids. They have synthetic listed which matches the inci and adds to my guess that the human derived media is now gone in the new version making it purely a plant derived growth factor product now. Definitely tweaks and differences were made. I'm fine with plant derived ones as I said I like them as well. A few of them were in the first version as well. But if you're looking specifically for human derived I would say this serum is now out for you.
It's also not any cheaper so I'm not sure why. Normally it's the human derived media that drives up the cost of a serum like this but maybe it's just the luxury brand aspect. They added glycolic acid as well and sometimes it could be a low percentage and not irritating but I worry as they mention it improves skin texture and reduces enlarged pores. I reached out to the brand to see one if I could confirm the human derived media had been removed in the new version and if they had an idea if the glycolic acid was above or below 5% and I have not gotten a response. If I do get one I'll update this post. I'm really sensitive to glycolic acid and there's no way I'm spending that amount of money on this product without knowing a close percentage so I know if it's a possibility for me or not.
So ultimately my recommendation is if you want human derived growth factors SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum is the same price and really stellar, I would just go that route. I love their eye cream and I haven't looked yet to see if it changed as well with the revamp. I'll likely try the new version once I work through my current eye creams. Review of the old one HERE. They also used to have a cleanser and acid toner which I thought were really pretty good. Review HERE. They're now discontinued from the line. The new cream looks promising but I think serum wise I'll just stick with SkinMedica as it's $30 cheaper anyway.