Time to go over a few Naturium serums. Naturium is a newer brand with an affordable price point. They have a wide variety of products and yes while they fit into the “single ingredient” family of affordable products (Inkey List, Good Molecules, Ordinary) but they do have some more well rounded products. It’s kind of single or percentage ingredient and it has a target focus so it’s both. After what I’ve tried to date category wise I would say they do serums pretty well. So there’s the prelude. First up is the Azelaic Topical Acid 10%. Details per Naturium:
Our direct acid is formulated with a high concentration of glycinated azelaic acid, along with niacinamide, vitamin C and coffee seed extract, which minimize skin imperfections such as congestion, redness, dullness and discoloration. We use an advanced azelaic acid derivative clinically proven to provide maximum benefits including normalizing sebum production and hydration. Pure azelaic acid does not reduce sebum production, can be drying and is challenging to stabilize in formulations at efficacious percentages, especially water-based products.
Benefits:
Gently exfoliates
Helps reduce dark spots
Balances excess oil
Directions Shake well. Apply an even layer onto face, neck and chest, avoiding the eye area. For best results, follow with a moisturizer. If mild sensitivity or redness occurs, reduce frequency of use until skin adjusts. Wear SPF during the day. Patch test prior to use is advised.
Ingredients
Water, Propanediol, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Niacinamide, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenylpropanol, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Potassium Chloride, Glycerin, Chlorphenesin, Tocopherol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate.
I love the idea of azelaic acid but I’ve always hated the thicker cream, often gritty texture. Not the case with this product. This serum uses an azelaic acid derivative called Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate or PAD for short. I think you’re going to start seeing the derivative more as azelaic acid gains popularity. Azelaic acid has been around and it’s even prescribed at a 15% or above level by Dermatologists in the US (though in some countries you can get 20% as a non-prescription). PAD has a nicer more elegant texture allowing for lighter liquid formulations, less of that grit and thick cream more typical of azelaic acid. Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It does gently exfoliate helping unclog pores and refining the skin’s surface, but it also helps reduce sensitivity, redness and hyperpigmentation plus deliver antioxidant benefits. You see it used for people with rosacea, acne and hyperpigmentation.
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a water soluble derivative (azelaic acid with amino acid glycine) that has some more hydrating properties than typical azelaic acid. It helps inhibit Tyrosinase activity (enzyme needed to make melanin) and it helps control sebum. I find azelaic acid effective for reducing my rosacea redness and sensitivity and reducing my melasma/sun spots. It needs to be used very consistently though and don’t expect quick results. It really takes about 12 weeks of consistent use to get the full effects. You can use PAD or AA twice a day, I find PAD easier to tolerate twice a day. I really enjoyed the light gel serum texture of this Naturium serum, it was so easy to incorporate. No pilling in a routine and it’s only $20. They also combined it with multi-tasker niacinamide, vitamin C, coffee seed extract and sodium hyaluronate. It’s a tolerable product even with my more sensitive skin this year. I have a hard time with certain azelaic acid products irritating my cheeks.
I think this one is totally worth trying if you want to get into the azelaic acid family and aren’t already using a high percentage prescription (likely it won’t do much for you then). It’s accessible, affordable and not as irritating (in my humblest opinion). Make sure you give it a good chance though and use it for 12 weeks. I would purchase again. I do wish they changed the name however to show it’s a derivative versus Azelaic Topical Acid. It’s confusing especially as there’s a new Azelaic Acid Emulsion out with a similar name (uses true azelaic acid).
The Tranexamic Topical Acid 5% was the last tranexamic focused affordable serum I tried out several brands. It also ended up being my favorite. Details per Naturium:
Our direct acid is formulated with a potent level of tranexamic and other skin brighteners including kojic acid, niacinamide and licorice, which work synergistically to help fade the look of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
Benefits:
Reduces the look of hyperpigmentation
Targets uneven skin tone & texture
Calms & restores the skin barrier
Directions Shake well. Apply an even layer onto face, neck and chest, avoiding the eye area. For best results, follow with a moisturizer. If mild sensitivity or redness occurs, reduce frequency of use until skin adjusts. Wear SPF during the day. Patch test prior to use is advised.
Ingredients
Water, Isopentyldiol, Tranexamic Acid, Propanediol, Citric Acid, Kojic Acid, Niacinamide, Hydroxyacetophenone, Isododecane, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Panthenol, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Phytate, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopherol.
Tranexamic acid is a water-soluble synthetic ingredient derived from the amino acid lysine. It’s actually used as blood clotting promoter in healthcare. It’s a pill and IV medication used to help bleeding like heavy menstrual periods, or in hemorrhaging cases involving hemophilia, tooth extractions or pregnant/postpartum women. There are lots of uses not listed. It was found later to have some use as a topical in skincare treating melasma. Tranexamic Acid (TXA) has inhibitory effects on UV light induced plasminogen activator/plasmin activity. UV radiation starts the synthesis of plasminogen activator (by keratinocytes) which then converts plasminogen to plasmin. This plasminogen activator induces tyrosinase activity which means increased melanin synthesis resulting in pigmentation. It seems complicated but ultimately with pigmentation reducing the melanin producing pathways helps reduce pigmentation. Though pigmentation reduction also needs a multi-factorial approach (SPF daily, exfoliation, retinoids, consistent routine).
TXA also needs a good period of time like 12 weeks to reach optimal effects. Don’t start and stop it. Be consistent. I like using it twice a day as well. Though with both of these, even though they’re “gentle acids” take it slow at first and build up tolerance. While I find TXA to be a good ingredient it needs the right formulation, it’s not always effective just by itself. Naturium combines TXA with kojic acid, niacinamide and licorice, all great ingredients for brightening and pigmentation. It has a light serum gel texture and an orange tan color. It layers well and doesn’t pill. Both serums don’t have any essential oils or added fragrance which I love. This serum is $20 so it’s affordable for a pigmentation serum (not all are). I thought it was the most effective out of the Inkey List and Good Molecules TXA focused serums. So it’s my pick as the most affordable ones I’ve used.
I have not tried SkinMedica Lytera for those who will ask (on my list), but I do think SkinBetter Even is quite fabulous and a little more effective for me. Different style of pigmentation serum. I also enjoy NIOD RE:Pigment as a mid priced product for pigmentation (has PAD and a bunch of other technology). I would consider buying this one by Naturium again but of the two serums the Azelaic Acid is my favorite, it has the most use for me. I would highly recommend the Tranexamic Acid serum for anyone looking for a budget pigmentation serum, out of its price range it’s the most effective I’ve tried so far. If you have any other budget skincare pigmentation serum recs drop them below and maybe I’ll get to them one day.