Medik8: Crystal Retinal, Firewall & Hydra8 B5 Intense

Medik8 is a British brand I had been hard core lusting after for a while. Their founder studied pharmacology, physiology and biochemistry and has a nice background. Their goal is for better skin health & results. The brands philosophy is vitamin C & sunscreen by day, vitamin A by night. I think of them as a green chemistry brand. Their goal is to be ‘the world’s most sustainable professional-led skincare brand’. Everything I’ve tried has been high performance and effective. I finally caved and grabbed some things now that they have become more accessible to the US. These three are the first I have to review. First up is HYDR8 B5 Intense. This serum first drew me in with it’s purple hued bottle. Beyond that it’s actually really nice. Like really nice. Details per Medik8:

Our original hyaluronic acid serum – supercharged. Harnessing all of the hydration power of our best seller, Hydr8 B5™, with added Natural Moisturising Factors alongside a potent triple-action hydration booster which recharges the skin’s internal moisture source.

Hydr8 B5 Intense™ helps to kickstart the natural production of hyaluronic acid in the skin, blocks its breakdown and works in conjunction with hyaluronic acid to deliver immediate and long-term hydration for all-day moisture. The lightweight serum is intensified with Natural Moisturising Factors, which make up the skin’s integral hydration system; grabbing onto moisture for supple and nourished skin. Hydr8 B5 Intense gives your skin the power to withstand dehydrating changes in temperature and humidity, leaving the complexion showered in moisture.

Key Benefits

Maintaining the same textual characteristics of the original best-seller, this lightweight, fast-absorbing serum upgrade is the ultimate antidote for parched, dry skin. Just a few drops twice a day will leave your skin hydrated beyond recognition. Simply massage the berry-toned serum into skin and feel the difference in a matter of seconds. The super-soft serum receives its vibrant purple hue from antioxidant-rich saskatoon berry. This nourishing superfood protects the skin’s natural stores of hyaluronic acid to promote a supple complexion from the inside out. This intensive serum leaves the complexion endlessly plump and dewy.

Key Ingredients

  • Multiweight Hyaluronic Acid – With a unique ability to attract and retain more than 1,000 times its own weight in water, hyaluronic acid draws moisture from the surrounding atmosphere into the skin, leaving the complexion both nourished and supple.
  • Vitamin B5 – Also known as panthenol, vitamin B5 helps the skin to retain moisture, while supporting the regeneration of skin cells.
  • Natural Moisturising Factors – Sodium PCA, glycerin, urea, proteins, sugars, 15 different amino acids, lactic acid, creatine; natural components in the skin which bind and hold water for ultimate hydration.
  • Saskatoon Berry – Found in the wild open woods of western Canada, saskatoon berries are packed full of wonder-antioxidants called anthocyanins. Saskatoon can help to block the enzyme which breaks down hyaluronic acid, leaving a reservoir of hyaluronic acid within the upper levels of the skin.
  • Soy Extract – A natural and potent antioxidant, soy is able to help stimulate the skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid, alongside helping to enhance collagen synthesis for youthful-looking and hydrated skin.
  • Biosaccharide Gum – A natural sugar, biosaccharide gum has a long and linear structure which forms a breathable film over the skin, working in tandem with hyaluronic acid to hold moisture within the complexion.
  • Glyceryl Glucoside – Helps to stimulate aquaporin channels in the skin which act as hydration tunnels through which water and glycerin can circulate for the correct water balance throughout the skin layers.

The serum has a really light serum texture. It sinks in quickly, layers well and isn’t sticky or tacky. It has a slight purple hue from the saskatoon berry and a very light scent, almost non-existent. Maybe slightly berry. It’s really not important the scent is barely there. I love the purple hued bottle, it’s just nice. Granted yes I wish it had a pump but it’s so pretty I’ll take a dropper. This has hydrators like glycerin, trehalose and sodium hyaluronate plus natural moisturizing factors like sodium PCA, plus urea, lactic & amino acids. Natural moisturizing factors are found in the epidermis. They help maintain adequate skin hydration. This also has saskatoon fruit extract (rich in antioxidant flavenoids, anti-inflammatory anthocyanins) & black carrot juice (antioxidant, rich in carotenoids). It’s also got acetyl glucosamine which is a precursor to hyaluronic acid and it helps skin make hyaluronic acid. Overall it’s a really, really nice hydrating serum. It’s got all the basics, a really nice texture, natural moisturizing factors and other ingredients that are beneficial to the skin beyond just hyaluronic acid. It’s a well rounded serum. Plus it won’t cost you $300. I highly recommend and it’s been one of the best hyaluronic acid serums I’ve discovered recently. It just ticks every box and more.

 

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Glyceryl Glucoside, Panthenol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Urea, Creatine, Allantoin, Diglycerin, Amelanchier Alnifolia (Saskatoon) Fruit Extract, Propylene Glycol, Daucus Carota Sativa (Black Carrot) Juice, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lysine, PCA, Sorbitol, Trehalose, Calcium Pantothenate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acetyl Glucosamine, Taurine, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Lysine HCl, Alanine, Arginine, Histidine HCl, Serine, Proline, Glutamic Acid, Threonine, Valine, Leucine, Glycine, Isoleucine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phenylalanine, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid.

Courtesy of Medik8

Copper PCA Peptides aka Firewall is a duo chamber peptide antioxidant serum. Details per Medik8:

Reboot your skin with Copper PCA Peptides (previously known as Firewall), a revolutionary serum expertly formulated to recharge and energise skin for next-generation anti-ageing results. Centred around copper PCA, a mineral patented by Medik8 for its unprecedented antioxidant power, this serum neutralises a broad spectrum of skin-damaging free radicals to leave the complexion looking smooth, youthful and undeniably radiant. The high-performance mineral also works to renew and rebuild the skin by saturating cells with the vital energy needed to support collagen and elastin production.

Think of it your skin with added vitality. Always at the forefront of skincare innovation, Medik8 was the first to unlock the full anti-ageing potential of this powerful mineral. Enriched further with an advanced complex of age-defying peptides including Matrixyl 3000, plus super-antioxidants superoxide dismutase and dimethylmethoxy chromanol, the award-winning serum lifts and smooths to keep skin looking plump, soft and hydrated while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Key Benefits

With antioxidant power 5 times stronger than the next best competitor*, Copper PCA Peptides is the ultimate defence against premature skin ageing. The energising serum is packaged in a dual-chamber pump to maximise stability and potency, ensuring the actives continue to work when they are applied to the skin. The neutral-scented formula sinks in rapidly; leaving skin feeling incredibly silky, hydrated and smooth.

*Results from 3rd party independent tests assessing antioxidant performance

  • Copper PCA – A patented, extraordinary ingredient with 40 times greater antioxidant performance than vitamin C. Revolutionary copper PCA protects the skin from damaging free radicals and leaves the complexion soothed from inflammation.
  • Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol – Able to neutralise a broad spectrum of free radicals, dimethylmethoxy chromanol is a powerful antioxidant that offers comprehensive protection for skin.
  • Superoxide Dismutase – One of the most powerful antioxidants naturally found in the body, superoxide dismutase is exceptional at neutralising free radicals to prevent skin cell damage.
  • Vitamin E – An oil-soluble antioxidant, vitamin E can quench free radicals on the skin and also regenerate the other antioxidants in the formula for optimal power.
  • Anti-Ageing Peptide Complex – A combination of peptides that stimulate collagen production to lift and firm the skin for a youthful-looking complexion.

So this is a duo pump product, you dispense one part of the product from each side into your hand, mix, then apply. These duo chamber pumps do this to maximize the stability of the ingredients. Overall this has a hydrating creamy gel serum texture. I don’t remember any scent to be honest so I’ll go with non-discernible. This is an antioxidant serum with copper PCA, ginseng, vitamin E, superoxide dismutase and dimethylmethoxy chromanol (antioxidant, neutralize free radicals) combined with peptides like Matrixyl 3000 (helps stimulate collagen production). I love vitamin E and superoxide dismutase, both are really great super antioxidants. I actually also really like that they did this without vitamin C, sometimes you get so much vitamin C all the time it’s nice to have an antioxidant serum without it. Plus I’m likely already using an ascorbic acid serum on the side so I don’t need extra normally.

Copper PCA is the green side, it’s got that green sea foam sage color. It’s not the same color as copper tri-peptide which is different. Copper PCA is a copper salt that is an antioxidant plus it helps with moisture and can help reduce redness. At first I didn’t think this serum was doing much I’ll say but around week 3-4 of using daily I noticed my skin a little tighter, more radiant and glowing. It’s actually pretty affordable too. One of the things I love about Medik8 is their effectiveness combined with their great formulations and good prices. I liked the approach on this serum as a different than vitamin C antioxidant style boosted with peptides and yes I would buy it again. My bottle lasted about 5 weeks with daily use. I’m hoping this one ends up on Cultbeauty eventually to make it more accessible, right now it’s on the main Medik8 website (they do ship to the US FYI).

 

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Copper PCA, Polyacrylamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cocoa Butter, Niacinamide, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Cetearyl Alcohol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polysilicone-11, Aminobutyric Acid, Barium Sulfate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Laureth-7, Triethanolamine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Superoxide Dismutase, Benzyl Alcohol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Benzoate, Carbomer, Dehydroacetic Acid, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Polysorbate 20, Tromethamine, Sodium Metabisulfite, Ethylhexylglycerin.

Courtesy of Medik8

Last but certainly not least is Crystal Retinal. This has become one of my new favorite retinol/retinal products of all time. I started with Crystal Retinal 6, then tried 10, but honestly I like 6 the best I think. Stronger isn’t always better. There is three strengths-3, 6, 10. Details per Medik8:

Rediscover youthful skin with Crystal Retinal™, Medik8’s latest innovation in vitamin A is now available in four strengths. Formulated with stabilised retinal, a powerful derivative of vitamin A with next-generation anti-ageing results. Unmatched in its age-defying power, retinal can deliver results comparable to clinical-grade vitamin A up to 11 times faster than classic forms of retinol.1 The ground-breaking overnight serum visibly minimises fine lines and wrinkles; firming and plumping the complexion to resurface skin texture and soften the face. Featuring hyaluronic acid, glycerin and vitamin E, it hydrates skin at every level to deliver a supple, even-toned, more youthful-looking complexion. More than that, it actively helps reduce blemish-causing bacteria to keep skin clear and balanced. In just 4 weeks, skin is noticeably younger, smoother and undeniably radiant.2

1 G. Seigenthaler et al., Biochemical Journal, 1990, 268, pp 371-378
2 Independent user trial carried out over 8 weeks using Crystal Retinal 6. Individual results may vary.

Crystal Retinal 3
Stable Retinal Night Serum Medium-Strength Vitamin A
The entry point for those who are new to vitamin A or have tried mild retinol formulas and the answer to those looking to prevent early signs of skin ageing.
0.03% Encapsulated Retinaldehyde.

Crystal Retinal 6
Stable Retinal Night Serum Super-Strength Vitamin A
Perfect for those who are wanting to upgrade their high-strength retinol results.
0.06% Encapsulated Retinaldehyde.

Crystal Retinal 10
Stable Retinal Night Serum Ultra-Strength Vitamin A
A high-performance anti-ageing serum for those looking to boost the results of Crystal Retinal 6.
We strongly recommend starting on lower strengths of Crystal Retinal if you have not used retinaldehyde before.
0.10% Encapsulated Retinaldehyde.

Key Benefits

Supercharge the results of your night-time regime. Reducing the appearance of fine lines in just 4 weeks,3 Crystal Retinal boosts skin’s natural collagen production to resurface and renew the complexion. The innovative formula has all the anti-ageing, radiance-boosting and clarifying benefits of retinol, plus the same low irritation. But armed with high-performance retinal, it is able to provide visible results up to 11x faster. The naturally peach-coloured serum-cream sinks effortlessly into skin to nurture and smooth the complexion. Featuring a natural comforting aroma of vanilla and tonka bean, it leaves skin strengthened, hydrated and ready for overnight rejuvenation.

Key Ingredients

  • Encapsulated Retinaldehyde – Proven to work up to 11 times faster than retinol, retinaldehyde is a revolutionary new form of vitamin A that targets fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and uneven skin texture.
  • Hyaluronic Acid – With a unique ability to attract and retain more than 1,000 times its own weight in water, hyaluronic acid draws moisture from the surrounding atmosphere into the skin, leaving the complexion feeling both nourished and supple.
  • Vitamin E – An oil-soluble antioxidant, vitamin E can quench free radicals on the skin while stabilising retinaldehyde for optimal power.
  • Glycerin – As a natural humectant, glycerin traps water within the skin to leave it hydrated and comfortable.

Directions After cleansing in the evening, massage a small amount of Crystal Retinal across the face, neck and décolletage. Allow to absorb before applying your moisturiser. Crystal Retinal application should be phased in gradually, and only use in the evening. Use twice a week for the first 2 weeks, every other night for the next 2 weeks, then every night. Always wear sunscreen the following morning while using this product, and for 1 week after. Consult a doctor if breastfeeding or pregnant.

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Isododecane, Cyclodextrin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinal, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Vanilla Planifolia (Vanilla) Fruit Extract, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Rubus Chamaemorus (Cloudberry) Seed Oil, Sodium Polyaspartate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dipteryx Odorata (Tonka) Bean Extract, BHT, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyacetophenone, Titanium Dioxide, Phenoxyethanol, Alumina, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Stearic Acid, Coumarin, CI 14700 (Red 4).

How It Works

Clinical-grade vitamin A, otherwise known as retinoic acid, is an exceptionally powerful skincare ingredient for youthful-looking skin. Highly potent and wildy efficacious, it is able to trigger cellular regeneration and collagen production to fight all visible signs of ageing. Retinoic acid is only available with a prescription, but vitamin A is available over the counter in the form of retinol skincare products.

Retinol has similar effects to retinoic acid, however it must first be converted to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid to be used by the skin. Crafted with retinaldehyde, Crystal Retinal requires just one conversion to retinoic acid. This means that it is able to produce results comparable to retinoic acid up to 11 times faster than classic forms of retinol.1 The advanced active is carefully encapsulated in a crystal structure that is broken down by the skin’s natural enzymes when topically applied. This ensures maximum stability and absorption while allowing the vitamin A active to be released gradually into the skin while you sleep for minimal irritation. Combined with hydrating hyaluronic acid and skin-soothing vitamin E, Crystal Retinal targets fine lines and wrinkles for smooth and visibly youthful skin. Unlike other forms of vitamin A, retinaldehyde boasts direct, powerful antibacterial properties. This allows it to target acne-causing bacteria; promoting a healthy, visibly clear complexion.

1 G. Seigenthaler et al., Biochemical Journal, 1990, 268, pp 371-378

Courtesy of Medik8

Medik8 included a lot of great information on their site about this product (and their others) so I included all of it because they really can describe its function better than I can. Crystal Retinal has a light cream texture and a yellow color. Retinol/retinal is yellow in color so you’ll notice the stronger it is, the more yellow it tends to look. I love the pump tube which is perfect for a retinol/retinal. You don’t want to expose this ingredient to air as it degrades it. The scent of this product is light, almost sweet with a hint of floral. Purely from the natural ingredients as there’s no added fragrance.

So lets talk about retinol in general. Retinol, retinoids or retinal are all forms of vitamin A which accelerate skin cell turnover leading to a rejuvenated complexion. Retinol is the gold standard in skincare because it helps with everything-lines, wrinkles, uneven texture and skin tone, dullness. You name it, retinol helps. It’s your anti-aging power house ingredient. It ranges from prescription strength to over the counter. Retinol and other forms have to be converted by enzymes in the skin to become vitamin A aka retinoic acid. Only as this last product retinoic acid can retinol work on the skin.

Here’s the basic conversion:

Retinyl palmitate > Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic acid

So the closer you get to retinoic acid the more effective it’s said to be. They all have far less irritation or side effects than prescription retinoic acid. I really love retinaldehyde (retinal) myself. I find it really effective without irritation. I never get flaking or redness but I may get a little dryness. That’s about my main side effect from any retinal. Overall, I find it a very tolerable ingredient on my skin. Retinal is newer on the market and it has less data than retinol in clinical studies. I’ve tried many different versions of it and it’s one I find either works for you or it doesn’t. I know some who say Crystal Retinal did nothing for them and many who say it was the best thing ever. I’ve also tried lots of different brands or versions or retinal and yes some are better than others. You gotta try it and see.

This product also has vitamin C & E and carrot seed oil (rich in beta carotene) adding to it’s benefits. The scent comes from the vanilla, cloudberry, tonka bean & honeysuckle extracts. The retinaldehyde is encapsulated in this product. That’s actually important, the delivery system into the skin helps the retinal get where it needs to be to be more effective. Retinols/retinals with good delivery systems always tend to be more effective for me. This is one of those effective ones. It’s a pretty impressive over the counter product and if you like vitamin A, I suggest you try it one day. I love the light creamy texture it works extremely well. I liked Crystal Retinal 6 more only because I was able to use it everyday in the end with little dryness, the 10 gives me more dryness and I couldn’t use it as often. I feel like 6 was good enough in general though I have been playing with 10 as a booster once a week on the weekend. This is easily one of my favorite non-prescription retinal/retinol type products. I could skip a lot of others in lieu of this one, so I yes highly recommend it.

 

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