NIOD: Recent Acquisitions

NIOD by Deciem has been one of my favorite brands for a long time. The line features unique technology plus it’s effective. Your brain is tired after reading the descriptions for every product but in general I have found the majority of their products are really quite good. If you didn’t like the textures of The Ordinary products check out NIOD, they have much more sophisticated textures. NIOD is more expensive but the formulations are more well rounded and just all around better in general. No single ingredient formulations in NIOD. NIOD is Deciem’s best brand by far in my own personal opinion. Even though I’ve tried quite a bit by NIOD I still have a huge wishlist. All their products are alcohol and essential oil/fragrance free. This is my second bottle of Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist. Details per NIOD:

SDSM2 is the second generation of SDSM, NIOD’s dermal treatment mist–not to be classified mistakenly as a “toner”–that acts as a fundamental daily force against oxidative stress, water loss and the look of inflammation, all of which contribute to loss of visible skin quality over time. 

Key Actives:

• Yeast-Derived Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) Superoxide is the main reactive oxygen species in each cell and SOD is the body’s natural way of out-competing the ongoing and very damaging effect of superoxide in cells. Arguably, SOD is the most important force against oxidation in the human body. Under direct UVB exposure, topical SOD was shown to reduce the look of additional inflammation by nearly 100%.
• Purified North American Four O’ Clock Flower A studied bio-derivative of this Aztec plant helps reduce the look of inflammation.
• Marine Exopolysaccharides Derived entirely through fermentation processes, this sustainably-sourced marine polysaccharide is able to preserve water significantly more than the highest molecular sizes of hyaluronic acid, without any of the drawbacks associated with topical application of such higher weights. This ability prevents water loss even in extreme cases (measured under severely cold temperatures (-20 C) where this polysaccharide increased water preservation by 60%–and in comparison, high-molecular weight HA increased preservation by only 11%). With continued use, the longer-term benefits of preserving hydration are far beyond just hydration itself; however, from a more immediate perspective, this technology increases skin hydration by more than 35% and measurably reduces the look of roughness within 2 hours.
• Malachite Rock Extract This highly-purified, ph-balanced extract of malachite rock, or copper carbonate hydroxide mineral, offers additional direct scavenging of the superoxide radical. It also offers very high potency against oxidative stressors through multiple pathways. SDSM2 owes its more pronounced turquoise colour to the extract of this naturally-copper-rich rock.

Directions Apply morning and evening to face and neck after cleaning before application of other treatments. If used as part of a NIOD regimen, apply after LVCE and/or SS, but before CAIS. Can be used on body areas if desired to improve water density and/or target oxidative stressors.

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Superoxide Dismutase, Malachite Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides, Mirabilis Jalapa Extract, Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome Extract, Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract, Sphagnum Magellanicum Extract, Arginine, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Salicylate, Gellan Gum, Sodium Chloride, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Citric Acid, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

 

I’ve never formally written about this mist though it is my second bottle. I was first drawn to the blue hue and Instagram raves about this mist. It seems pricey but it’s more than double the size of a regular mist which actually makes it more affordable. It’s also sold out a lot. Superoxide dismutase is one of the most powerful antioxidants out there, plus malachite is a great copper rich anti-pollution ingredient. This mist aka SDSM uses marine exopolysaccharides for hydration. It’s obtained by the fermentation of a marine bacterial strain said to be rich in the same monosaccharide as hyaluronic acid (glucuronic acid). I find the mist hydrating plus it’s got antioxidant/anti-pollution protection. It’s not really fancy with a bunch of plant or other extracts, but it’s pretty fabulous considering it’s such a huge bottle. This will take you a good 4-6 months to use up depending how much you use it. The spray nozzle is a touch more powerful than I would like, I do wish they could get a slightly less powerful nozzle. Overall I think it’s a great mist.

I was always curious about the Photography Fluid. The Photography Fluid, Opacity 8% is a shimmering bronze. Details per NIOD:

This serum-textured surface treatment complements the approach of NIOD’s Photography Fluid, Opacity 12% by balancing light absorption effects (in contrast to light reflection focus of PF 12%) with selective reflectiveness of darker interference pigments. Like PF 12%, this effort is supported by perfecting prisms and topical photo-finishing technologies to offer radiance in life and specifically through the camera lens.

Key Technology:

• Nano-Prismatic Bronze Technology An ultra-fine interference pigment, this mesh bronze suspension (in contrast to fluid coverage pigments) blends into skin tone for a natural bronzed hue to highlight the base caramel tone of the formulation when applied on the skin.
• Nano-Prismatic Gold Technology Disappears immediately upon application with a natural golden hue as a foundation to healthy-looking, radiant skin.
• Caramel Saccharides The natural tan tone of the formulation is entirely from natural caramel which is dissolved in sea polysaccharides that completely prevent drying and unevenness common with caramel application on the skin.
• Nano-Prismatic Yellow-Red Camera Hue Corrector Sixth-generation, ultra-fine hue corrector blacks out red tones and minimizes undesirable yellow ones for skin that looks instantly better in life and on camera.
• Hydrophilic Polymer System A suspension of perfectly-spherical hydrophilic polymers offers colour stability and light refraction to minimize visible skin imperfections that colour formulations generally highlight further (which is why makeup often makes the skin look older).
• Filmogenic Polymers A studied suspension of long-chain filmogenic polymers prevents evaporation and offers visible evenness, consistency and hydration throughout the day.

Directions Apply instead of liquid foundation for natural-looking radiance with a hint of translucent tan. This formula can also be used under, over or mixed with liquid foundation if coverage is desired. Can be used alongside PF, Opacity 12% to create a semi-translucent contouring effect.

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Caprylyl Methicone, Titanium Dioxide, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Mica, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Caramel, Ceteth-20 Phosphate, Red Iron Oxide (CI 77491), Sodium Hyaluronate, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides, Allantoin, Glucose, Fructose, Maltose, Trehalose, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Urea, Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome Extract, Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract, Sphagnum Magellanicum Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Carrageenan, Acacia Senegal Gum, Methyl Methacrylate/PEG/PPG-4/3 Methacrylate crosspolymer, Dicetyl Phosphate, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Salicylate, Triethanolamine, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

Photography Fluid, Opacity 12% is more of a shimmering light white gold. Details per NIOD:

A novel approach to creating a foundation for skin that reflects even radiance in life and very specifically through the camera lens, this instant treatment is serum-textured but contains a wide array of light refracting prisms, tone and hue correctors and topical photo-finishing technologies to offer even radiance within seconds.

Key Technology:

• Bio-Silica Photo Finishing Prisms Grades 3, 7, 9 Multiple grades of next-generation ultra-fine particulates refract light in thousands of directions to create an immediately-noticed even tone to the skin.
• Nano-Prismatic Blurring Suspension Ultra-fine super-blurring suspension uses fine prisms to create a systematic confusion of a perfect-looking skin surface and to reduce the look of pores immediately.
• Nano-Prismatic Gold Technology Disappears immediately upon application with a natural golden hue as a foundation to healthy-looking, radiant skin.
• Patented Dragon Fruit Chromatic Refractor First-ever bio-fruit complex to provide immediate visible radiance to the skin as tested under multiple light conditions and under camera settings.
• Nano-Prismatic Yellow-Red Hue Corrector Sixth-generation, ultra-fine hue corrector blacks out red tones and minimizes undesirable yellow ones for skin that looks instantly better in life and on camera.
• Surface Mesh Adherence Technology Offers a breathing film that disallows perspiration-induced or unintended wash-off of other technologies in this product or those applied subsequently to this product.
• Oil-Free Hydration Bio-Sugar Complex Light, instantly-absorbed, oil-free bio-complex is clinically proven to offer comfortable, lasting hydration to allow the corrective technologies in the product to be compatible with even the driest of skin types.

Directions Apply instead of or under liquid foundation to balance out undesirable colour tones and skin imperfections. This formula can also be mixed with other products for subtle hue correction.

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Hexamethyldisiloxane, Hylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract, Mica (CI 77019), Cetearyl Isononanoate, Propanediol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Trehalose, Sodium PCA, Urea, Sodium Lactate, Allantoin, Squalane, Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome Extract, Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract, Sphagnum Magellanicum Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Methyl Methacrylate/PEG/PPG-4/3 Methacrylate crosspolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ceteareth-12, Cetyl Palmitate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Amodimethicone, VP/VA Copolymer, Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer, Tin Oxide (CI 77861), Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Metabisulfite, Benzoic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

 

Both of these have a thicker serum texture and they are richly pigmented. You only need a little. You can use these are a base for foundation or mix in with your foundation for a little glow and blurring effect. You could actually use them in lieu of foundation as well. The 12% is a white creamy base with gold shimmer while 8% is a neutral bronze. I prefer the 8% myself as I’m not a huge white gold highlight fan. I’d love to see NIOD come out with a rose gold version. The 12% will be great for paler skin tones though darker ones could sheer it out by adding a drop or so into foundation. Anyone who loves a summer bronzed glow will love the 8% version. It’s also slightly less thick in texture. The 8% is also a great substitute for D-Bronzi if you’re looking for one.

Voicemail Masque is a unique gel textured sleeping mask. Details per NIOD:

Living cells communicate with one another and this cellular communication is an essential aspect of life and health. Cellular communication breaks down with age and under stressful conditions, and this breakdown directly impairs the youthful appearance of skin, resulting in dullness and a compromised tone. Topical formulations today focus on functions of specific skin cells, but the communication between healthy cells itself is largely overlooked.

Voicemail Masque is a nighttime leave-on masque treatment that fights many of the signs associated with impaired cellular communication. The formula is a suspension of plant stem cells from mountain flowers and narrowleaf plantain, as well as highly-purified polyphenols rich in hydroxycinnamic acid from oregano leaves. The suspension medium is comprised of advanced adaptive silicones that lengthen dermal exposure timeframe, supported by a fractionated spectrum of molecular weight (instead of a specific one) of hyaluronic acid, just as naturally found in the body. The result is skin that looks healthy, well-rested, bright and uniform from the very first use.

Directions Use twice weekly at nighttime only. If used as part of a NIOD regimen, apply CAIS/MMHC first and then apply a thin layer of this masque over the entire face, avoiding direct eye contact. Outside of a NIOD regimen, apply over lighter serums and avoid application of thicker cream formulations. Massage for about 20-40 seconds. Do not apply other products over VM. Do not rinse off until the AM. VM is not recommended for very oily skin types and should not be applied on peeling or irritated skin.

Ingredients

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Centaurea cyanus flower water, Glycerin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Propanediol, Aqua (Water), Pentylene Glycol, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Melanin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arginine, Sodium Chloride, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

 

Voicemail Masque is a gel textured sleeping mask. It has a pretty good silicone texture to it yet it layers well and never pills. NIOD usually has very detailed instructions on how to layer their products. They suggest massaging this one on the skin for 20-40 seconds and not applying anything on top. If you’re dry that might not work for you as a night moisturizer. I know it didn’t work as a last layer for my skin. I applied a cream on top and had no issues with pilling or any kind of odd effect so I’m not sure why you can’t apply a cream on top. This sleeping mask has a unique combination of plant stem cells, antioxidant rich polyphenols and hyaluronic acid all in a unique silicone base. It’s plumping, hydrating and reviving. It’s also got a fun texture and is nice to do the massage twice a week. I think it’s a great hydrating layer or could be a night cream if you’re not on the drier end. As NIOD says maybe not for very oily skin. I have mixed it in a serum and cream as well to do half and half and it dilutes it plus it applies well still. Not sure if that’s OK but it seemed to work fine.

Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% aka CAIL 1% is their newest edition to the copper amino isolate line. Details per NIOD:

Copper Amino Isolate Lipid (CAIL) 1% is the latest addition to NIOD’s core regimen collection. Designed for PM use, the formula has a blue gel-like texture that melts into a comfortable oil-like feel upon application. An enhanced approach to targeting overall healthy-looking skin, this pro-collagen, pro-lipid, pro-fat formula branches from the concept of NIOD’s multi-award-winning Copper Amino Isolate Serum, with the additional benefits of building and enhancing skin barrier function, elasticity and integrity via lipophilic pathways. In general, healthy-looking skin maintains a careful balance of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), extracellular proteins such as collagen and elastin, and epidermal surface lipids, corneocytes, adipocytes, and sebocytes. CAIL 1% is designed with a highly focused effort to target all of the aforementioned skin components, improving volume and resilience by elevating the skin to optimal conditions.

Key Technology:

• Tripeptide-1 (Palmitoyl) Copper The formula incorporates a solubilised format of pure Palmitoyl-GHK-Cu at a 1% concentration by weight. Palmitoyl-GHK-Cu is a version of GHK-Cu with a Palmitoyl group attached to its structure to enhance its lipophilic properties for improved skin affinity. This peptide works synergistically to restore and maintain a youthful appearance of the skin. GHK-Cu is found in nature and is originally isolated from human plasma. The natural role of this peptide, as found in the human body, includes the activation of a wide range of skin health functions, including healing, immune function, collagen synthesis, fibroblast production and anti-inflammatory responses.
• Zizanoic Vetiver A unique upcycled ingredient, derived from the roots of vetiver exhausted by the fragrance industry, Zizanoic Vetiver has properties to support skin tonicity, volume and firmness. Over time, reduced adipocyte integrity and a decrease in the volume of facial fat affects the mechanical stability of the skin and leads to aging. The appearance of aging can also be attributed to reduced sebum production, decreased keratinisation, and a reduction in the adipocytes capacity to store fat. Zizanoic Vetiver promotes the improved appearance of skin volume redefinition and firmness while promoting an overall plumping effect.
• Patented Dihydrodiisoeugenol Complex With aging, the distribution of fat tissue changes due to the inhibition of adipogenesis and increased fat degradation via stimulated lipolysis. Patented Dihydrodiisoeugenol Complex is a novel, multi-faceted approach to enhancing skin resilience using a dual mode of action to approach the decline in subcutaneous fat. This unique complex aims to counteract the appearance of a decrease in adipose tissue by improving the elasticity and firmness of the skin, particularly when applied to the cheeks and jawline.
• Aphanizomenon Aquaflo A newly-discovered blue-green algae that is rich in vitamins, amino acids, and minerals to promote the replenishment of the superficial protective barrier of the stratum corneum. Aphanizomenon Aquaflo functions to smoothen the skin surface for a younger appearance by facilitating the skin’s natural moisturizing factors. Prominent in Proline and Lysine, Aphanizomenon Aquaflo improves skin elasticity and reduces the appearance of wrinkles.
• Plant-derived Squalane A vegetable hydrocarbon renowned for its emollience and capacity to maintain skin’s moisture barrier, squalane is an excellent hydrator that can replenish hydration, imparting suppleness and flexibility to the skin.

Directions CAIL1% is designed to be used on its own after cleansing. Apply a very small amount to face and neck in the evening. If incorporated into the NIOD core regimen, Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC) may be used after the application of this product.

Ingredients

Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Glycolipids, Sucrose Laurate, Propanediol, Tripeptide-1 (Palmitoyl) Copper, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran, Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Extract, Aphanizomenon Flos-aquae Extract, Sucrose Stearate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol.

 

I love the original CAIS liquid. Copper tripeptides are one of my favorite ingredients for wound healing, stimulating collagen, elastin & glycosaminoglycan production (helps tissue remain plump), improving skins elasticity and strength as well as reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also has some antioxidant benefits. This new version combines 1% copper tri-peptide in a pro-collagen/pro-lipid gel oil texture to enhance your skins barrier function. You can sub this for a facial oil easy. Some people can use this as an all in one formulation. Just cleanse and apply CAIL and be done. It’s not enough for me alone so I layered it. This also has specific directions to apply-after cleansing and before hyaluronic acid serum. CAIS is best applied directly on the skin after cleansing due to specific absorption and interaction with other ingredients but I’m not sure if the lipid formulation has the same stipulations. I liked it best after lightweight serums and before moisturizer. CAIL has copper-tripeptide, squalane, a blue green algae, vetiver and a patented complex to help with firming. I found CAIL moisturizing, soothing, reparative and firming. It’s a little pricey for the tiny tube and it’s often sold out. Many NIOD devotees swear by it. I feel it really helps support barrier function and overall health of the skin.

Neck Elasticity Catalyst is a product I was alway curious about but never took the plunge to buy. I’ve never believed in neck only products but this one helps change my mind. Details per NIOD:

PRO-ELASTIN AND PRO-ELASTIC-FIBRE TECHNOLOGIES These technologies respect the elasticity protein—or elastin—and elastic fibres for a direct increase in the look of elasticity.

• Fundamental Protein Tetrapeptide
• Leontopodic Acid (Plant Biotechnology)
• Plantamajoside Phenylpropanoid Complex (Plant Biotechnology)

UN-ENZYME TECHNOLOGIES These technologies help to reduce the appearance of lax skin which is generally caused by the key enzyme that breaks down elastin—or elastase—and progerin—a truncated protein that causes dysfunctional cellular aging. (Please note that Elastin is “good” and Elastase is “bad” and some articles misspell—or, worse, mistake—these two components for one another.)

• Amino Complex of Arginyl-Tryptophyl-Diphenyl-Glycine
• Bio-Complex of Trifluoroacetylated Tripeptide

DENSITY TECHNOLOGIES These technologies work to increase the look of skin density—as a secondary mechanism to support the look of viscoelasticity and reduce the appearance of persistent irregularities.

• Circulatory Push-Pull Biotechnology of Caffeine, Carnitine and Bitter Ginger
• Multi-Stimulatory (<10 kDa) Direct-Form Hyaluronic Acid Not to be confused with any form of hyaluronic acid used generally in skincare, this technology is not a sodium salt of Hyaluronic Acid—or in simple terms, not to be confused with sodium hyaluronate—and is able to increase the look of dermal density, resulting in overall visible elasticity in a novel way not directly correlated to elastin. (It’s important to reiterate that this non-salt, 10kDa-molecular-weight form of direct Hyaluronic Acid is not a surface or below-surface hydration technology, unlike most common salt forms of HA.)

Directions If used as part of a NIOD regimen, apply to the neck and lower face areas in the morning and evening in this order after cleaning: CAIS, MMHC, NEC. If used as part of another skincare regimen, apply after serums but before any heavier creams. If NIOD HV is used, it should be applied after NEC. Apply to the neck and lower face areas in the AM and PM.

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Caprylyl Methicone, Glycerin, PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Butylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, L-Carnitine, Caffeine, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Acetyl Cyclohexapeptide-34, Urea, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Coccoloba Uvifera Fruit Extract, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Maltodextrin, Dextran, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan gum, Sorbitan Laurate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Tocopherol, Phenylpropanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol.

 

The Neck Elasticity Catalyst has the most unique texture. It’s a thick gel with a heavy silicone feel to it. Oddly it goes on great and never ever pills. Ever. I’ve layered it a million ways and it never pills despite the silicones. The silicones are never heavy and they sink in fairly quickly so it’s a nice formulation. I’m about halfway through my large tube and I’m really noticing a difference. I was always one to feel the same products I’m using on my face are good enough for my neck. However this one really helped change that for me. I’ve noticed firmer skin as well as a reduction in lines and wrinkles on my neck. Everything just seems firmer, plumper and more even. I’m not going to get into all the technology for this one. NIOD’s description is enough. It’s got pro-elastin & pro-density technologies combined with an un-enzyme approach. Essentially you’re targeting the enzymes that break down collagen which should help keep skin firmer, plumper and have more density. So it’s a multi-focal approach product. I can skip facial oil on my neck when I use this because it is hydrating enough and my neck in general needs a bit less hydration/oils. I think those who are close to forty or above will benefit the most from this as well as notice better results, it’s not necessary for 20s-30s.

Overall I love the mist as always, wish it had a less powerful pump, but it’s worth trying because it’s actually affordable when you calculate it out. The two Photography Fluids are nice but not necessary, I think more will prefer the 8% over the 12% for a bronzed look. Also good if you’re looking for a D-Bronzi substitute. Voicemail Masque is unique and fun and if you enjoy hydrating layers it’s worth a go. CAIL is soothing and I see why it’s a cult favorite. I still kind of prefer my CAIS liquid over the CAIL as a texture preference. If you can use CAIL as a final moisturizer at night you might like it as a one and done approach versus CAIS. The Neck Elasticity Catalyst might be a new favorite neck product. I can see myself repurchasing. I know NIOD seems pricey compared to The Ordinary but it’s a far better line in general. It’s well rounded and effective. Plus the textures are so much more sophisticated. Brandon was a definite genius with this line. What’s your favorite NIOD product?

Top to Bottom-Photography Fluid 8%, Photography Fluid 12%, Voicemail Masque, Neck Elasticity Catalyst, CAIL 1%:

*Gifted by brand but all thoughts are my own.