Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream & Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm

Allies of Skin has long been a favorite of mine for their innovative products and great textures. Their newest launch is the Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm. Think of this as a soothing treatment cream. Details per Allies of Skin:

An overnight leave-on treatment supercharged with award-winning adaptogen 2% MossCellTec™, Oat Protein & ATP, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, and Niacinamide, that helps soothe and repair compromised and post-procedure skin.

Our Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm is the first formula we’ve made with such a unique composition, combining the power of a balm with the melty texture of a cream that absorbs in seconds into your skin.

Compromised skin craves instant comfort, accelerated skin regeneration, and uniformity. This powerful formula is made with a fusion of instantly acting and long-term reparative ingredients and acts like an all-in-one First Aid kit for your skin. It’s ideal to use before and after non-invasive procedures such as laser treatments, micro-needling, and chemical peels.* This formula also introduces an innovative active ingredient: MossCellTec. We used a 2% concentration of the first-ever biotechnologically produced moss, which has been studied to enhance and support skin resilience.

Benefits:

• Aids in skin barrier recovery for certain pre-and-post non-invasive procedures
• Accelerates compromised skin’s natural ability to regenerate by promoting collagen & elastin production
• Instantly rejuvenates and soothes compromised skin
• Rebuilds and reinforces long-term strength of skin’s outermost layer

KEY ALLIES:

LONG-TERM EFFECT

2% MossCellTec™ | Award-Winning Natural Adaptogen
Promotes skin barrier recovery, strengthens skin against urban aggressors, improves hydration and barrier recovery in just two weeks.*

Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract
Stimulates natural growth factors in the skin, boosting collagen & elastin production for accelerated regeneration.

Oat Protein + ATP + Niacinamide
Helps strengthen the skin’s barrier function and promotes skin recovery for overall smoothness and plumpness***

Ceramide.
Reinforces natural lipid barrier of dry or sensitive skin.

INSTANT EFFECT

Panthenol
Powerful moisture magnet that enhances retention of essential hydration, for softer, smoother, and firmer-looking skin.

Squalane
Provides deep hydration, promoting supple and soft skin.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
This calming peptide helps to soothe irritation, rebuild, and strengthen the skin’s barrier to improve its efficiency.

* According to MossCellTec™ No. 1 in vivo efficacy test results of 14 days with 23 participants.
**According to DermCom in vitro efficacy test results of 24 and 72 hours
***According to Unipyrosin PS-18 ex vivo efficacy test results of 24 hours

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Squalane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Isomalt, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Canola Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Panthenol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Ethyl Macadamiate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Ceramide NP, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Hyaluronic Acid, Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Adenosine Triphosphate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract, Phytol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Dextran, Zea Mays Starch, Sodium Gluconate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, O-cymen-5-OL, Potassium Sorbate, Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

So essentially this is a soothing barrier repair style product. It’s a moisturizer. Think balm meets cream. In a tube. I do love that focus has shifted away a bit from acids and strong actives to more barrier friendly products the last year. I like that trend. The texture is a medium weight cream and yes it’s in a tube but it’s easily dispensed from it, I’ve had no issues with the pump and with this product being too heavy for this size pump (unlike the old honey mask in a tube if you remember, you remember). It’s very much a richer cream meaning more lipid heavy making it that balm meets cream style product. So don’t freak out if you have combo skin or anything, while this is really nourishing it’s not actually heavy or greasy. It almost has more a dewy satin finish once set. If you’ve tried Josh Rosebrook Vital Balm Cream this is kind of similar that it’s a balm cream hybrid. I do want to stress that this one is light enough for even day use and I feel suitable for combo skin and possibly combo oily especially if the right season or if you’re having a moment that needs barrier repair. It does work for my dry skin peeps but you have to tweak it a little, I’ll get to that.

This has no discernible scent (maybe slightly like oat), is alcohol and fragrance free so it’s suitable for sensitive skin as well. When should you use this? You can use this when you need barrier help as in a temporary situation when you screwed up your skin with actives (it happens, we’re all human), during weather changes that screw with our skins happiness, when you want a little extra skin TLC and love or if you chronically have sensitivity issues like rosacea or eczema. I’ve tried this both day and night it works both ways depending how you use it. For days I’ve used it as a typical moisturizer at the end of my routine. I tried it on a weekend cause I wasn’t sure how heavy it would be. It actually wasn’t that heavy feeling but really more winter appropriate if you’re using it as a day cream. Keep in mind I have dry skin with rosacea. I also tried it on days as pre-skincare item. I do what I call pre-skincare on the weekends. Meaning I apply a nice eye mask/patch then apply a cream like this or something else while I go make coffee and breakfast. I do this before doing my actual morning skincare routine mostly because my skin is super dry in the morning and needs something in order for me to go on. I found that this alone on my dry skin sunk in quickly and was pretty much mostly gone about 4-5 hours later (it took me a long time to do my morning routine I was lazy that day). So that’s why I feel it will be fine for combo skin, it’s not an overtly heavy or greasy product. It’s more satiny/silky but nourishing.

At night I tried it by itself and under things like a balm or occlusive like Vaseline or others like it. When used by itself it was not enough for me to last overnight as a moisturizer. It’s soothing, comforting and nourishing but if you’re really dry put a balm or occlusive over it. They make a great pair. So it was fine under a balm, Vaseline or I tried Vanicream Ointment as well. They all worked well together, this hasn’t pilled in any combination I’ve put it in. Very layerable with that nice nourishing silky satin cream texture. This product has hydrators (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, aloe), natural moisturizing factors, herbal extracts, fatty acids, emollients and occlusives plus soothers like allantoin, bisabolol, panthenol, oat and aloe. It does have fatty acids, caprylic/capric triglyceride (fractionated coconut oil), the plant wax and the Super Sterol Liquid (cholesterol/lanolin esters) as occlusives but it’s really not that occlusive hence why I said dry skin might need to add that extra layer of something that has paraffin, mineral oil, silicones or something with petrolatum. Another reason I say it will be combo skin friendly and potentially combo oily depending on the person.

This has some fun things like crocus bulb extract and MossCellTec™. I’m not an expert but looks like MossCellTec™ is an ingredient made form apoptogenic moss that helps improve the skins barrier and hydration. So while this isn’t an instant cooling or liquid instant soothing relief, it has that nice lipid, replenishing the barrier kind of relief. I’ve only had it a little over a week and used it 6 times or so. It’s hard for to give you long time results but I wanted to talk about the product and it’s texture and I know many will be curious. I really quite enjoy it, it’s a great addition to their line up. I’ve been waiting for them to make an actual moisturizer forever. This officially launches tomorrow.

Edit 8/7/22: So I have found this can pill more than I originally thought. Usually when used alone or with a more minimal routine oddly. Normally it’s the other way. I’m not sure if the more hydrating base of serums or misting or facial oils make this better at not pilling. But it’s become a noticeable issue which is worth mentioning in here.

I haven’t formally written about their newest launch prior to the above yet. I wanted to fully finish Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream before I did. I have now finished it so let’s discuss. Details per Allies of Skin:

This award-winning eye cream is supercharged with multiple Peptides, Brighteners, Vitamin C, 1% Bakuchiol, Ceramides and a nourishing blend of Omega-rich oils.

Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream is supercharged with a high-performance Peptide blend that includes the award-winning Matrixyl® Morphomics™ and Neodermyl® technologies. Used daily, this innovative alliance helps firm the eye area by working on rhytides — a.k.a. fine lines and minor creases — and improving the appearance of three types of wrinkles: crow’s feet, inner corner creases, and dehydration lines.

It’s packed with a powerful combination of periorbital Brighteners — like Orchistem™ and Bioskinup™ Contour 3R — that immediately get to work. They also provide 17% firmer and 10% suppler skin over time* and help refresh tired-looking eyes by targeting dark circles and puffiness**. It’s a good night’s sleep in a bottle.

We supercharged our 1st ever eye cream with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, a potent Vitamin C derivative that targets dullness and signs of fatigue. Plus, we added 1% Bakuchiol, a plant-derived active that provides Retinol-like benefits like reducing the appearance of wrinkle depth and skin roughness.

With a nourishing blend of Omega-rich oils — Baobab, Rosehip, Argan and Squalane — our eye cream delivers superb hydration that helps to plump fine lines and has a rich, silky texture that melts into a thin layer upon application, swiftly sinking into the skin and leaving it soft and dewy.

Benefits

• Hydrates and depuffs eye area
• Promotes firmer and brighter-looking skin
• Reduces visible signs of premature ageing
• Provides nourishing care for delicate skin

KEY ALLIES:

Hyaluronic Acid. A heavyweight hydrator and humectant that is extremely good at bonding with water molecules, making it a critical factor in retaining skin moisture.

Squalane. A non-comedogenic oil that mimics the function of the skin’s natural oils and provides additional moisture to its outer layer by improving elasticity and promoting suppleness.

1% Bakuchiol. An antioxidant ingredient derived from the Babchi plant and touted as the natural alternative to Retinol. It has similar skin-resurfacing effects, minus the dryness and irritation. It helps to improve skin elasticity, hydration and firmness, reduces signs of premature ageing, and diminishes the appearance of uneven skin tone.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate. A stable but potent Vitamin C derivative that brightens and reduces the appearance of fatigue and dullness.

Licorice Root Extract. A plant-based extract that helps soothe skin, brightens and evens out skin tone. It has antioxidant properties, which helps protect the skin from external aggressors.⁠

Chrysin + Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 + Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. A cutting-edge blend of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Chrysin that lightens the appearance of dark circles, and helps strengthen the delicate under-eye area and reduce puffiness.

Methylglucoside Phosphate + Copper Lysinate/Prolinate. A fast-acting ingredient boosted with Methylglucoside Phosphate, an anti-ageing element, and Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, an amino-acid mineral complex. It allows the skin to reduce the appearance of deep wrinkles and improve firmness.

Matrixyl® Morphomics™. A next-generation form of Peptides that promotes graceful ageing and smoothens the skin’s appearance, particularly surrounding the eye contour, face, and neck.

Organic Rosehip Oil. Rich in antioxidants and fatty acids like Linoleic, Oleic, and Palmitic Acids, provides soothing properties and is also a great great resource for supporting the skin and providing protection from harmful environmental aggressors.

Organic Argan Oil. Comes from the kernels of argan trees, native to Morocco. It aids a number of skin concerns, from boosting hydration to reducing sebum and protecting skin from sun induced damage.

Organic Baobab Oil. Comes from the African baobab tree, the largest succulent in the world. It is packed with Vitamins A, E, and D, and nourishing fatty acids. Helps brighten the skin, boost collagen and strengthen the skin barrier.

Ceramide. The building blocks of the skin’s defense, they help to promote moisture retention, prevent dryness and irritation, and reinforce the skin barrier for enhanced resilience and bounce.

Superoxide Dismutase. A potent antioxidant that supports the skin’s natural production of superoxide dismutase to prevent the formation of free radicals. Evens out complexion, and combats signs of premature ageing and dullness.

Orchid Stem Cells. Comprised of orchid stem cells, it helps tighten, rejuvenate, and refresh the delicate skin of the eye area.

Green Tea. Best known for its antioxidant ability, it combats and neutralises free radicals which can cause signs of premature ageing. De-puffs tired skin, helps soothe and calm sensitised skin, and promotes radiance.

Ergothioneine. An antioxidant amino acid that brightens dullness, protects against pollution damage, and reduces signs of premature ageing, such as crow’s feet and fine lines.

Vitamin E. Vitamin E is a group of powerful fat-soluble antioxidants that includes forms Tocopheryl Acetate and Tocopherol. Helps fight off free radicals, protecting skin from damage caused by environmental aggressors. It can also help strengthen the skin barrier function and make it less susceptible to irritation.

Coenzyme Q10. A fat-soluble quinone compound found in every cell of the human body, vital for energy production. Protects against damage caused by UV rays, pollution, toxins, and stress.

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Tribehenin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Bakuchiol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract, Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/Stem Extract, Calanthe Discolor Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Extract, Ubiquinone, Superoxide Dismutase, Ergothioneine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Chrysin, Gluconolactone, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Sodium Gluconate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Isohexadecane, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 80, Steareth-20, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Potassium Sorbate, Calcium Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate, Disodium EDTA, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol.

Quite the long list of key ally ingredients to go through there, so lets break it down. This is an eye cream. An eye cream to hydrate, plump, firm, brighten and help reduce lines & wrinkles in the eye area. I personally am team eye cream though I know many don’t believe they’re needed. I have older eyes and yup I find an eye cream to be quite helpful at tackling signs of aging. I have very very dry under eyes so I look for ones that are more moisturizing without being too greasy or heavy and this one definitely fits that bill. It’s a heavier more moisturizing cream without being too greasy or oily. If you liked Drunk Elephant C-Tango texture you’ll like this one. It has no fragrance or essential oils and the packaging is just so downright chic on this one. I love the design myself. Hey while packaging isn’t everything, I am allowed to enjoy it.

So this has hydrators, fatty acids (squalane, fractionated coconut, rose hip, argan, baobab), ceramide, brighteners (vitamin C, licorice), antioxidants (superoxide dismutase, green tea, ergothioneine, Co-Q10), orchid stem cells, bakuchiol, peptides (Matrixyl® Morphomics™, Haloxyl™) plus methylglucoside phosphate + copper lysinate/prolinate (collagen and elastin production). It has all the things I look for in eye cream, vitamin C, peptides, fatty acids, antioxidants and hydrators. I’m mainly looking for firming, plumping and hydrating to reduce lines in the area. I have genetic dark circles as well as physical aspects that require more than a topical skincare product can give me so eye creams never work on my dark circles. I skip discussing the topic anymore. I’m not your person to see if it works there.

This cream is the perfect texture for me, it doesn’t travel into my eyes and cause cloudy contacts, it does well with the firming and line reduction. I quite enjoyed it and would use again. I also recommend it for dry eyes due to the texture. The bottle is cute and stylish. Overall it’s a win for me. I enjoyed both of these more than some recent launches as they finally put out some things without actives. I love acids/vitamin C and all but it’s nice to have just some basic workhorse products (not that these are basic by any means) that everyone can use as well. These two fit that bill. Can we get a peptide serum and a lush juicy gel cream next? Oh and a oil based cleanser. Mmmm a gel oil or a cleansing balm. Wink wink. I won’t ask for SPF cause it’ll be US filters which will just ruin it. Both of these were PR but all thoughts are my own. I do have a code MICHELLEN for 20% off both Allies of Skin & PSA.