Easily one of the most asked for reviews by you guys is Augustinus Bader. The cult status cream after only being on the market a short time. With quick cult status, endless glowing celebrity & magazine reviews it's easy to see why many are skeptical. Especially with it's quite luxe price tag. I'm sorry this one took a long time but I really wanted to spend the proper amount of time testing the products and seeing what they or did not do for my skin. So lets start with who is Augustinus Bader? He is a German physician and professor with a 30 year career focused on stem cell biology and technology, regenerative medicine & tissue engineering. He spent time with burn victims and ultimately decided to focus on research with a focus on regenerative medicine and applied research of stem cells. Since 2003, he has been Director and Professor of Applied Stem Cell Biology and Cell Technology, at the University of Leipzig. He is considered an expert in his field.
He has over 200 patents for technologies or techniques in his field. I actually looked them up and they're interesting, lots of tissue regeneration, growth factors and erythropoietin. If you look at this publication you can see how topical application of erythropoietin helped with wound healing. It also showed a reduction in fine lines, brown spots, pores and improvements in the smoothness of skin. You can see one of the patents HERE. Erythropoietin is naturally in the body (produced by the kidneys) and it helps stimulate bone marrow to produce red blood cells. I always find it fascinating all the potential applications of stem cell technology. When I get the time I would like to read some more of his publications. I work in a state hospital and I love the enthusiasm that professors have towards research which is key towards advancing medicine and creating new technologies. I also tend to be very fascinated with tissue regeneration, wound healing, growth factors, stem cells & the whole concept. Based on his career and work he is someone I would like to actually be creating a skincare line, not another popular influencer.
I spent so much time going into his background because there are some 'Dr' named brands that really use the name and celebrity more to create a brands success. If you put Dr on it seems like it might be better than regular stuff right? With this brand they decided not to use Dr in the name and just go with Augustinus Bader. I like that. I looked up the number of patents Bader has to other well known doctors of popular brands and all I have to say is just google it. It's an impressive difference. He does a lot of research and publications. I spent so much time on this aspect because the products he has are very pricey and scrutinized that it's just hype.
There are two versions on his cream-The Cream & The Rich Cream. I started with The Cream because I tend to like a lighter cream and I thought this would be a great day cream. Details per Augustinus Bader:
A light, refreshing, yet deeply hydrating cream that stimulates skin's natural process of rejuvenation to dramatically improve the complexion's appearance.
- Suitable for combination to oily skin types
- Leaves your skin feeling refreshed and soothed in humid climates
- Ideal for your day time routine
- Soothing aloe vera, rich in anti-oxidants, amino acids and vitamins A,B, C and E help to protect skin from free-radicals
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Sodium Carbomer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Squalane, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lecithin, Alcohol, Carbomer, Ceramide NP, TFC-8, Sodium Benzoate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Superoxide Dismutase, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Ascorbic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Dextran Sulfate
On first glance this looks like an average moisturizer. I remember looking at it a year ago thinking whats so special about it? It's got humectants, emollients and occlusives (but no different than many other creams). It's got rice and soy protein for amino acids and peptides, aloe, squalane, ceramides, vitamin C & E, weak vitamin A and that's about it. Minus the patented TFC-8 aka Trigger Factor Complex. Seems like other moisturizers I own. Granted all of those are skin loving and beneficial ingredients which is what you want in a moisturizer. I see why there's skepticism over the formula/inci given the price. It's fragrance, paraben and mineral oil free which will please many. Plus it has really nice luxe packaging. So those are all part of a great base.
The biggest mystery is what's in the TFC-8 Complex. I cannot find the ingredients listed anywhere. I always thought you had to list a trademarked compound out in the inci list but maybe you don't because it's a ghost online. The Augustinus Bader site lists TFC-8 as:
Inspired by Professor Bader's technology, the key to both creams' transformative properties is TFC8®, our proprietary Trigger Factor Complex. TFC8® comprises natural amino acids, high-grade vitamins and synthesised molecules naturally found in skin. It guides key nutrients and powerful natural ingredients to the skin cells, creating an optimal environment for the body's innate processes of repair and renewal. Everything your body needs, it already knows.
The body's stem cells act as a repairing force, mobilising the body's own biological wisdom to regenerate and heal. The stem cells found in skin lie dormant, awaiting an activation signal to repair the damage inflicted by life and environmental factors.
Pretty vague in general but just like any product description. Normally you have the inci list to go by as well and in this case you don't. Professor Bader says it contains over 40 different ingredients including vitamins, synthesized molecules and amino acids. An interview with Dazed Beauty lists this response why the creams are so special:
"They contain specific, naturally occurring molecules (a complex of vitamins, minerals, amino acids) that play a vital role in navigating and boosting the regeneration process of the skin cells. I developed ‘TFC8’, a novel transporting mechanism, that delivers these essential actives to cell microenvironment in the right concentrations, supporting the skin to assume a healthy repair process. By using the skin as a natural bioreactor, the cream becomes uniquely personalised to the needs of the individual user's skin - this is one of the reasons our creams are so effective."
So ultimately no one has any real idea what the special patented complex is. There's some talk it contains either a fragment of erythropoietin or peptides that mimic some of the effects. I'm going to guess that overall he knows what he's doing as far as skin regeneration goes as that's his field of expertise. I'm curious if it has any growth factors or if it's more a natural supportive complex like Bioderma Matricium. Without knowing it's hard to justify the cost for many which I totally get. However I know we all tend to get very focused on an inci list and price in the age of skintellectuals, versus how the product actually performs on our skin. I took a blind leap of faith and tested this cream for six weeks solid daily. Then I went off for two weeks then back on. I went back and forth for a few months to really try to get a good feel of it.
The Cream is light and I feel it's sufficient for day use more than night at least in the cooler months. I might be able to get away with this at night on a very hot and humid summer night. It has a nice smooth, silky feel that's not too heavy or greasy. It's fragrance free and has such a pleasant texture. Honestly The Cream is a winner as far as texture goes. It's going to be perfect for oilier to combo skin types. I loved how soft and silky it left my skin. Did it dramatically change my skin? No. But in reality many products don't. I've been taking good care of my skin for years now and honestly the changes I see at this point with any new product is minimal. It is true you kind of reach a skincare plateau at some point where you get minimal change. It's more about maintenance and protection. You can see it go downhill when something goes haywire with your skin, but rarely do I ever see an OMG this product absolutely changed my life in six weeks. You can just tell after a while when a product has a positive effect more than other products.
I loved the smooth feeling this gave my skin and the light silky texture. My skin was happy while using it. It seemed vibrant and smooth. Kind of that same effect you get from growth factors and stem cell serums. That 'pregnancy glow' I call it. Overall think happy healthy skin. Now is it as good as a look you get from a nice retinol? No. A nice retinol will change your life. This has a nice healthy effect on the skin but I wouldn't expect to see all your skin problems disappear with use of this one cream. I think people can get caught up in actives (myself included at times) and forget that having products that make your skin just happy and healthy is actually really great. It helps with your skins resiliency to whatever we put it through.
Despite the price tag and us wanting to think a pricey product will transform our skin to new levels, it's not that kind of product. I noticed my lines softened a little while using this product and overall my skin just had a nice happy healthy glow. I stopped using this for several weeks as that's when I tend to notice any backtracking on progress the most. I saw a little more wrinkle definition and less radiance but it was minimal. I used this product again and there was some improvement again. So that leads me to believe there's at least something to it.
The Rich Cream is the heavier version. Details per Augustinus Bader:
An intensely luxurious, super hydrator that stimulates skin’s natural processes of rejuvenation to dramatically improve the complexion’s appearance.
- Suitable for normal to dry skin types
- Offers the ultimate protective shield against dry climates
- Ideal for your night time routine
- Replenishing argan, avocado and evening primrose oil, rich in omega 6 fatty acids and anti-oxidants, help to protect skin from free-radicals
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Octyldodecanol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Tribehenin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Oleate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Sorbitol, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, TFC-8, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Magnesium Sulfate, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Cera Alba (Beeswax), Lactic Acid, Lanolin Alcohol, Zinc PCA, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Citric Acid
I purchased a small version of The Rich Cream just to see what the texture was like. It heavier, oilier and richer for sure. Great for night use or dry skin. There's no way I could use this in the day time or even on summer nights. I tend to not like really emollient creams and prefer balms instead if I'm going to go the heavy route. I liked this one but it's not my favorite of the two. I still prefer a balm to this if I want deep hydration. It does plump and hydrate well. I don't like using it everyday as it feels like a bit too much at times. I like the ingredients as a whole better in the light version as well. However, I can see why people with dry skin love The Rich Cream. It's great at moisturizing and plumping. Again it has the infamous TCF-8 complex plus a good amount of oils. It just was more lackluster compared to The Cream for me plus it's too heavy feeling on my skin for frequent use.
Supposedly you're supposed to use just this and cleanser for 27 days. There's no way I could have used this cream 27 days in a row, it's way too rich for me. The Cream is lighter and I could've tried it for 27 days alone but not nights. It's too light for nights for me. So I chose just to use it as my day cream for six weeks in combination with a few other skincare items. I had a consistent routine going so adding in the cream allowed me to really focus on that creams performance.
Top to Bottom-The Cream, The Rich Cream:
Overall my thoughts are this cream is very pricey and not in many peoples budget. It has nice luxury packaging and is fragrance free. Bonus. It has nice basic skin loving ingredients that support the skin in addition to the patented complex. The texture of The Cream is really lovely and silky and there's just something really nice about it. It's one of those products I purchased to review because I was curious and expected to say it did nothing and is just way overpriced for a cream. Because that's what I know many want to hear. However there's something about The Cream. I see why people like it. I prefer The Cream to The Rich Cream. I would repurchase The Cream easily despite its hefty price tag.
I think this brand is so scrutinized because of the whole La Mer history. Both are a celebrity and media hyped up luxury brand created by someone who worked with burn victims or to heal burned skin. However Augustinus Bader has far more documented expertise in the field. There's been some controversy lately over the origins of La Mer and how much is true. I have no doubts Augustinus Bader is an expert in his field and probably knows stem cells and regeneration pretty well. I know a lot of people have a big thing against La Mer pricing and inci lists so I'm not surprised they see another expensive cream and see the same thing.
I personally loved the old La Mer regular lotion. It was phenomenal. That was my first luxury skincare purchase in 1999. It made my skin feel so soft and silky and the texture was fabulous. It was superb compared to other things on the market 15-20 years ago. That's part of what made it so popular back then. That's why I think sometimes you have to skip the inci list scrutiny at times and just see how a product feels on your skin and see what it does. The Cream does remind me of that old La Mer lotion texture wise and how it feels on the skin, but I think it's a far better product. It's more effective for me than the La Mer lotion was. Also when I look at the hyped up Biologique Recherche inci lists I think why is that simple looking product so expensive? Then I put it on my skin and I say, ooooh that's nice. So again can't always judge a book by its price and inci list cover.
Do I think everyone can afford this? No. If it's in your budget and you want to try it I say go for it. They have minis. Can I tell you that there's something totally magical about it? Not necessarily. I can say when I haven't used either for two weeks then use it once I see some change for the better. That's what I mean there's something special about it. Could I tell you it will cure all your skincare woes because it's expensive? No. Only a good skincare routine and consistency will. But there's something to Augustinus Bader even if all the naysayers want there to be none. It's not in everyones budget but it's a nice luxury and again there's oddly something really good about it. Honestly I've spent more on a Biologique Recherche or African Botanics cream than this one and I'm sure many others have. Plus La Priarie, Cle de Peau, Sulwhasoo, 3LAB and many other popular luxury brands have more expensive products and a ton of fragrance (I think this one is better than all those too). It's not the most expensive cream out there. It's a really good cream that has a little something special about it.
