Finally time to go over the new Biologique Recherche creams I purchased around March. You can see my other posts about the brand HERE and HERE. Biologique Recherche creams are very hit or miss. You either love them, or hate them. So to speak. They either work wonders for you or don’t at all. Some can’t stand their scents, some can’t even tell they have a scent. It’s very personal. Crème Elastine is the lightest of the three. Details per Paul Labrecque:
The NEW Biologique Recherche Crème Elastine has been reformulated with anti-wrinkle, regenerating, and moisturizing active ingredients to further improve its efficacy on dehydrated Skin Instants© with wrinkles. Prevents wrinkles from forming, reduces wrinkles and fine lines, smooths skin, and maintains skin elasticity and tone. Crème Elastine allows the skin to stay youthful: the wrinkles and fine lines are reduced, and the skin is smoothed.
This rich cream is composed of Elastin segment, and Rice protein for their anti-aging properties, Centella Asiatica extract, Yeast extract, and Specific Biologique Recherche PhytoComplex to regenerate the skin, and Vitamin B3, Hyaluronic Acid and Rhizobium to continually hydrate and moisturize the epidermis.
The biological active ingredient, Marine Elastin has been replaced by an Elastin Segment which stimulates skin elasticity and visibly reduces wrinkles. Crème Elastine is composed of the new Biologique Recherche brown base, developed to enhance the formula’s stability and texture and the bioavailability of active ingredients. The rich formula is packed with fatty acids to highly hydrate and regenerate the epidermis.
Think hydrating, regenerating and anti-wrinkle per the brand. This was recently revamped texture wise in March of this year to be smoother and creamier instead of the old whipped brown cream texture. I love the improvement texture wise. It’s light and could be a night cream for more oily skin or a day cream for drier skin. I’m unable to use this as a night cream for my drier skin. It’s almost too much for daytime (at least during summer here). It’s nice, but I just really prefer VG Derm to this one. It just wasn’t as lipid heavy or occlusive as the others which is what I need. This one is lighter so if you’re looking for a lighter cream from the line that doesn’t have that whipped texture, look at this one. It may end up reformulated again, the brand is going Vegan and that means the core of a lot of it’s formulations like colostrum, placental and other similar extracts will be taken out of the range. Honestly I’m not sure how plant replacements will affect the formulations, so I’m sure I’ll be testing more as others will once they come out. On the other hand, it may make the scents better in the creams. Most BR products don’t smell great. This one has a light musty kind of scent, it’s not too strong but it’s not for everyone. This cream has the strongest scent of the three.
Active Ingredients: Anti-wrinkle platform Elastin segment, Rice protein ▪ Regenerating platform Centella Asiatica extract, Yeast extract, Specific Biologique Recherche Phyto-Complex ▪ Moisturizing platform Vitamin B3, Complexe made from Hyaluronic Acid and Rhizobium
Crème Métamorphique is a richer cream. I bought it to replace Creme Biofixine which was a bit too heavy at times for me texture wise. This one is a bit lighter but it’s still got a similar white slightly whipped cream base. Details per Joanna Czech:
The Creme Metamorphique regenerates and tones the epidermis and redefines facial contours. The main revitalizing and repairing agent is the cellular oligopeptide of amniotic fluid, creating an intense firming and restructuring treatment that leaves skin radiant and transformed. Recommended for all skin conditions.
I can’t seem to find this on the Biologique Recherche website right now. I think it was reformulated to be the new ADN Metamorphique. The brand has been doing a lot of revamping and reformulating lately as I said above. This one is more occlusive for sure than Elastine. It’s lighter than Biofixine, more smooth and creamy but it has a similar almost whipped texture like Biofixine. I didn’t like the Biofixine texture in the long run, I really thought I did at first. More so I put up with it. Sometimes it feels like it sits on top of the skin and takes a while to sink in (especially Biofixine). It’s great for anti-aging and really is a nice barrier cream but the texture is one I don’t necessarily enjoy. I won’t get into their ingredients as honestly for Biologique Recherche it’s more of the overall picture of how the product does on the skin. That much I’ve learned. As this formulation was not Vegan, I’m sure it was revamped into the ADN version since that one seems Vegan. Creme Metamorphique was great at firming, really a more anti-aging kind of cream likely to be better for older and drier skin. I’ll need to try the new version but right now as it stands I would just stick with VG Derm over this one as well. This one is heavier for sure and the most occlusive of the three and has no discernible scent.
Photo above: Top VG Derm, Bottom Right Elastine, Bottom Left Metamorphique.
Crème VG Derm is my absolute favorite of the three. Details per Biologique Recherche:
Enriched with nourishing and moisturizing active ingredients, Crème VG Derm helps replenish the lipids in the skin and strengthen its natural barrier to limit water loss from the epidermis. It delivers optimal, long-lasting hydration to the epidermis – even in the driest areas. Skin is relieved of any feelings of tightness, and generally feels moisturized and comfortable.
Recommended for Skin Instants© that are very dehydrated and lacking in nourishment.
Think nourishing, moisturizing and comforting per the brand. This is the middleweight cream of the three. It’s smooth and glossy in texture, lipid rich and occlusive in all the right ways. It’s soothing, comforting and like a lighter version of Creme Masque Vernix. If you like Vernix but want lighter, go with this one. It really comforts plus it’s enough for night use–even for my drier skin. Obviously I switch to Vernix during the winter. VG Derm is great for winter days or all other nights Vernix doesn’t work. So far it’s these two as my top favorite ever Biologique Recherche creams. I love their glossy, smooth textures. For me this is the ultimate barrier repair, soothing, nourishing, lipid replenishing cream. It will likely be changed as there’s colostrum and lanolin which are not Vegan. We shall see what the new one is like. This version was Chef’s Kiss so I’m nervous as I never blew threw a jar of cream so fast. If they didn’t expire so quickly I would get another before they changed it. This one has a very light almost pleasant scent, nothing big. Lighter version of Vernix scent.
Ingredients:
Creme VG Derm
Water(Aqua),Propylene Glycol, Mink Oil ( Mustela Oil), Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Oil, Triethanolamine, Lanolin Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Niacinamide, Yeast Extract(Faex Extract),Ceteareth-33, Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Colostrum, Lactic Acid, Carbomer,Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Gluconolactone, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract,Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Silk,Magnesium Chloride,Vinegar (Acetum),Alcohol,Tea-Lactate Citric Acid,Sodium Lactate, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Salicylic Acid,Myrtus Communis Extract,Sodium Benzoate, Sorbitol, Allium Cepa (Onion)Bulb Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel)Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Serine, Urea, Allantoin, Helianthus Annuus ( Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Thiamine Hcl, Pyridoxine Hcl, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbic Acid.
Creme Metamorphique
Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol, Amniotic Fluid, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Polysorbate-40, Cetyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Peg-2 Stearate, Tea-Stearate, Embryo Extract, Papain, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Caprylyl Glycol, Alcohol Denat., P-Anisic Acid, Sodium Dehydroacetate.
Creme Elastine
WATER (AQUA), PROPYLENE GLYCOL, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, GLYCERIN, CETYL ALCOHOL, SUCROSE POLYSTEARATE, JOJOBA ESTERS, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, NIACINAMIDE, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX, HYDROLYZED RICE PROTEIN, BETULA ALBA BARK EXTRACT, EQUISETUM ARVENSE EXTRACT, HEDERA HELIX (IVY) LEAF/STEM EXTRACT, FUCUS VESICULOSUS EXTRACT,CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, YEAST EXTRACT, RHIZOBIAN GUM, PALMITOYL HEXAPEPTIDE-12, CITRIC ACID, SODIUM HYALURONATE, ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX, GLYCERYL POLYMETHACRYLATE, TOCOPHEROL, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/ VP COPOLYMER, HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, POLYGLYCERIN-3, PEG-8, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, PHENOXYETHANOL, CHLORPHENESIN.
Creme Elastine is already vegan and is the reformulation of Elastine Marine and was just released.
Metamorphique was discontinued about two months ago.
VG Derm was already reformulated more than half a year ago and the ingredient you listed are the old ones, I doubt that the cream you have is still the version with mink oil.
I didn’t say Creme Elastine wasn’t vegan I was just talking in general about their line changing.
There is a new ADN Metamorphique on a website, all I’m doing is speculating it was reformulated so would make sense it was DC’d as last I looked was in March when I bought it: https://www.biologique-recherche.com/en-us/skin-care/cosmetic-preparation/Creme-ADN-metamorphique/
I didn’t save my box from the VG Derm but it wasn’t vegan. (colostrum was def on it and mink might have been, I’ll see if I saved it in my stories later). I couldn’t find the full inci list anywhere besides Joanna Czech so if you have the non-vegan one that’s after this older one with colostrum I’ll be happy to update it.
Yes, ADN Metamorphique replaces both Metamorphique and Creme ADN Elastine Marine Collagene Marin.
If the VG Derm has colostrum it also has mink oil. The reformulation is completely vegan. Seems like you managed to get your hands on the previous version, some retailers still have the old version in stock.
For me personally it doesn’t make a lot of sense anymore to add new BR products with biological extracts into my routine at this point knowing that even if I end up loving them, these versions won’t be around for long, it’s a bit frustrating. For example, my new fave Creme Aux Acides de Fruits has just been reformulated.
These are the new ingredients for VG Derm:
WATER (AQUA), PROPYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERIN, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, CETYL ALCOHOL, MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA SEED OIL, ACACIA DECURRENS/JOJOBA/SUNFLOWER SEED WAX/POLYGLYCERYL-3 ESTERS, SUCROSE POLYSTEARATE, GOSSYPIUM HERBACEUM (COTTON) SEED OIL, NIACINAMIDE, HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES OIL, YEAST EXTRACT (FAEX EXTRACT), BETULA ALBA BARK EXTRACT, EQUISETUM ARVENSE EXTRACT, HEDERA HELIX (IVY) LEAF/STEM EXTRACT, FUCUS VESICULOSUS EXTRACT, SORBITOL, CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, ALLANTOIN, SERINE, UREA, RHIZOBIAN GUM, SODIUM HYALURONATE, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, TEA-LACTATE, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, LACTIC ACID, SODIUM LACTATE, HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, CHLORPHENESIN, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS (ROSEMARY) LEAF EXTRACT, PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM BENZOATE
Rescue Spa are a quite up to date with their ingredients listings usually.