This is an odd post considering lately I rarely use any kind of exfoliant due to multiple reasons. My skin has been more sensitive since COVID and masking. I'm unable to tolerate acids like I used to be able to, I also don't miss them as I thought I would. However, I have narrowed my list down to some favorites in the liquid and leave on serum exfoliant category. Now, three months ago this list was different and in a year this may change again. That's fun of having a Top 3 and updating it, you can see the changes.
We'll start with liquid exfoliants. I prefer AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and PHA (poly hydroxy acids) though I don't touch glycolic anymore except on rare occasion. OSKIA Liquid Mask has 10% lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, MSM, panthenol, red snow, black carrot and cactus stem extracts. It's gentle enough yet effective. I love it's light non-sticky texture and overall ingredient profile. No stinging or irritation for me. It's what I always wanted in a lactic acid serum. If a lactic acid only serum is what you're after this one is the best I've tried in some time. Full review HERE. If mandelic acid is your thing then look at Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum. This has a blend of 11% mandelic, lactic & salicylic acids plus hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, bakuchiol, brightening/anti-aging/soothing peptides, superoxide dismutase, rosehip/tamanu oils and tyrosinase inhibitor rumex occidentalis extract. This one is a little thicker texture wise. It's kind of a one and done acid/brightening serum. It's actually pretty powerful and worked for me, it's just a little too strong sometimes for me. Pre COVID would've been fine. Really great combo for pigmentation though. Review HERE.
A recent discovery of mine is the Navinka Nightly Calibrator. This is a super light in texture liquid serum exfoliant. It's lightly hydrating. It has mandelic acid (great for pigmentation), phytic & lactic acids, elderberry extract plus white tea and shiitake/reishi mushroom extracts. I like it's really light texture, plus it's not harsh and is tolerable for my rosacea skin. It also works. Plus it's a small sized bottle which I love not having this large size I can never finish. Last but not least is the YOU Skincare NJAAS Serum. This has 5% lactic acid, willow bark, bearberry, licorice, turmeric water, chamomile, cucumber, gotu kola, beta glucan, glycerin, panthenol, alpha arbutin, oat protein, vitamin C & sodium hyaluronate. It has a light gel serum texture and as expected from YOU Skincare an amazing inci list. This one is pretty gentle. I tend to prefer a 5-8% range for acid exfoliators. They remain effective enough for me yet still gentle enough to not irritate. I think this one is a great choice if you like lower percentages and want a serum that ticks a number of boxes for you. Review HERE. That was one over three but they needed to be talked about since they all have their own great qualities.
I thought I would talk about my new favorite non-acid exfoliating serums as well. NIOD NAAP is a completely non-acid based exfoliating serum. This product uses fermentation bio-derivatives and amino isolates which are like precursors to acids (hence the name) encouraging radiance and exfoliation in a totally gentle non-irritating way. It has a glossy gel serum hydrating texture. If you can't do acids then this is for you my friend. It's become one I reach for more than acids right now. Unique and perfect for anyone with acid sensitivity. Review HERE. YOU Skincare comes in again with the Radiant Perfecting Serum. This is more gentle than NJAAS Serum with a more enzymatic approach. A gel textured product that's also hydrating. It’s got a ton of fermented extracts (grape, agave, avocado, pumpkin, bamboo, pomegranate), niacinamide, astaxanthin, Dragon’s Blood (healing, antioxidant, purifying), turmeric, beta glucan & sodium hyaluronate. Very gentle and tolerable if you're looking for gentle or no acids. It's not cheap but I really enjoy it plus it's unique. Review HERE.
Lastly the acid toners or liquid exfoliants. This used to be my favorite category of exfoliant. My favorites have also changed a lot over the years. PSA Heroine is such a gem. This is a slippery hydrating acid toner with a 6% mandelic & lactic acid blend plus licorice, kombucha, pomegranate, centella asiatica, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, camellia, glycerin, niacinamide and allantoin. I find it gentle, hydrating and it works as an essence as well, plus it's affordable. This is gentle and not irritating for me. It's a really great acid toner if you want AHAs only. Lately I don't need and can't tolerate BHA in general so this is perfect for me. Review HERE. Medik8 Press & Glow is a PHA only toner. This has the gentle cousin of AHAs called PHAs. More hydrating, more gentle, less irritating. This has gluconolactone, glycerin, prickly pear, acai and aloe. It's lightweight, lightly hydrating and gentle. If you like PHAs this is my favorite PHA only toner to date from what I've tried. I have the refill version which is fine, I don't need the dispenser. Lastly I include my all time favorite king of acid toners-Biologique Recherche P50. This is the P50V version which is more gentle than the traditional P50 I had been using. I finally decided to grab a small one which I'm happy about. I don't need a bigger one. This classic has gluconolactone (PHA), lactic acid, vinegar, citric, malic, phytic and salicylic acids plus niacinamide, yeast, horseradish, capsicum extract, walnut seed & burdock root extract. P50 is a cult favorite for a reason--It works. But it can be too much for some. P50V is more gentle but not the most gentle. Once a month on the weekend if I want a good acid cleanse this is what I use. I used to use it every weekend but cannot now. It's very well rounded and has a diverse acid blend. If you have pretty reactive skin or more intense rosacea that cannot tolerate acids then this is not for you. Review HERE. This is a powerhouse acid toner.
Out of the acid products the most tolerable for me right now is PSA, Medik8 and YOU Skincare NJAAS Serum. The strongest is the Allies of Skin and Biologique Recherche both of which I've had a hard time using lately. I quite enjoy them when I can tolerate them. I do find the NIOD and YOU Skincare Radiant Perfecting Serum to be the most gentle of all of these and I would recommend them for anyone with sensitivity to acids. I will do masks in a future post with all favorite masks.
*Some are PR
