Biologique Recherche Lotion P50: Review

I waited to grab Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 forever. I honestly don’t know why I waited so long. Mostly because of the price and availability. This is one of those brands you have to get from an authorized dealer, not a Dermatologist as in a prescription, but only a few websites carry the Biologique Recherche line. Lotion P50 is an acid toner. Details per Biologique Recherche UK:

There are four different versions of Biologique Recherche’s Lotions P50 available in the UK; the Lotion P50, the Lotion P50V, the Lotion P50W and the Lotion P50 PIGM400. Each one provides the same core benefits, but their formulations change slightly to suit each and every Skin Instant®.
The Lotion P50 is the purest and strongest formula out of all our exfoliating lotions. Additionally, this version contains specific active ingredients such as thyme essential oil and myrrh for their purifying, toning, and antiseptic properties. Due to its composition and high concentration of acids that penetrates the epidermis quickly, the Lotion P50 is only suitable for thicker Skin Instants® , with or without seborrheic tendency.
The Lotions P50 are Biologique Recherche’s unique acid toners; the fruit of 30 years of reflection and experience. These balancing and exfoliating lotions speed up the epidermis’ natural exfoliating process and the reconstruction of the epidermal shield. The fortified epidermis can then fulfil its protective functions completely, enhancing the skin’s self-regeneration potential. The Lotion P50 ritual is a key stage in all Biologique Recherche skin care programmes; it not only exfoliates, but it also purifies, regenerates and maintains the pH of the epidermis.

The chemical exfoliation of the skin is a procedure that happens thanks to the topical application of a cocktail of hydroxy acids. All Lotions P50 contain a potent combination of AHA, BHA and PHA exfoliants: lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and gluconolactone, to act as a chemical exfoliator. As its name indicates, the Lotions P50 gently renews the skin over 50 days – ‘P’ stands for peeling and ‘50’ stands for 50 days – which represents about two epidermal cycles, for a gentle yet effective exfoliating process.

The only reason this toner was on my radar was Caroline Hirons to be honest. I kept seeing it over and over and eventually had to take the plunge and try it. This acid toner has a clear straw color to it. It smells like apple cider vinegar. The smell of this toner took me a while to get past it. I kept powering on with it hoping I would get whatever results were supposed to come from it. Luckily, this product delivers. It’s worth dealing with the vinegar scent.

This toner manages to exfoliate easily and well. A quick swipe is all that’s needed. It’s reported at 12% AHA or so in strength from reading other reviews. That information is not listed on the site. It tingles and stings a bit at first, I got used to it after a few times no issues. It might be too much for sensitive skin. I would suggest a sample first if you might have sensitive skin.

Lotion P50 was around in the 70s and had phenol as an ingredient. Phenol topically numbs the skin. I had two samples of the P50 1970 version to try in addition to this. It does numb the face, it has an odd cooling effect that I can see why some people like it. Phenol has been banned in a lot of countries but you can still get it in the US. It’s the active ingredient in Chloroseptic. Take what you want from that information.

There are multiple versions of Lotion P50. I would eventually like to try them all. I wanted to start with the strongest most effective version. The rest are all lower percentages of AHA and not as strong. This acid toner doesn’t come cheap. It’s $98 for a 8.5 oz bottle. It lasts a while, I’ve made a dent in mine but expect it to last fairly well. The main reason I’m so enamored with this is that it works really well. It exfoliates quickly and with ease. It stinks like vinegar, but for the effect it’s worth it. Even at the high cost and difficulty in finding it. I found the best shipping in the US was at Shop Rescue Spa.

This acid toner has earned a place in my Hero Products because it works really well. It’s the strongest acid toner I’ve used to date and the effects coincide with that. It’s not without cons such as price and availability to the public. There are multiple versions for all different kinds of skin types. This version P50-is the kick butt version. With continued use I noticed changes in the texture and tone of my skin, as well as an increase in smoothness overall. This resulted in a decrease in fine lines and an overall anti-aging effect. I would recommend this to anyone who loves acid toners, and any kind of AHA/BHA exfoliator.


Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Vinegar (Acetum), Phytic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root (Burdock Root) Extract, Rumex Acetosa Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Oil, Sulfur, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate.

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