You all know I’m a huge fan of Allies of Skin. I’ve loved just about everything they’ve created since I discovered them in 2017. The brand is effective, smart, clean and well done. Their inci lists are always spot on and exciting. I always drool when I see their new stuff launch. So I have three new things to talk about and one old one. The Peptides & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment is the newly repackaged 1A All-Day Pollution Repair Mask. It’s exactly the same antioxidant and peptide packed gel cream as before it just has a new name and look. I like the new sand color which is light and perfect for a day product. You can read my review of it HERE.
You’ve undoubtedly been seeing the Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser all over the internet by now. It quickly became a favorite of many and for good reason. It’s low foaming, non-drying or stripping and has a low pH. All the things I want from a gel cleanser. Details per Allies of Skin:
A pH 5.5, sulfate-free universal cleanser that is supercharged with a hydrating blend of Antioxidants, Phospholipids and Hydrators like Silk Amino Acids, Hyaluronic Acid, Organic Safflower + Moringa Oil to gently remove dirt, grime and make-up without stripping the skin. Silk Amino Acids is a potent antioxidant that provides trace nutrients and nourishes the skin. It functions as a humectant that draws water and enhances moisture absorption to revitalize and hydrate skin cells.
Organic Safflower Oil and Moringa Oil break down grime and impurities while nourishing the skin with excellent reparative benefits. Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid helps brighten dull skin, while Lecithin Phospholipids forms a protective film on the skin’s surface to seal in essential moisture, keeping the skin healthy and supple. With daily use, skin feels silkier with a more refined texture, and complexion looks brighter.
Key Ingredients:
Hyaluronic Acid \ Low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid acts as a humectant to provide concentrated moisture to skin and promotes the retention of essential moisture while plumping the skin.
Silk Amino Acids \ A potent antioxidant that provides trace nutrients and hydrates the skin for increased suppleness.
Organic Safflower Oil \ A powerful antioxidant that breaks down grime, pollution and makeup easily. It also hydrates and nourishes all skin types.
Organic Moringa Oil \ Extremely rich in phytonutrients with excellent reparative benefits. It counterfeits the ill effects of pollution and external impurities on the skin.
Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid \ A pure form of L-Ascorbic Acid in ethylated form that is extremely stable. It encourages collagen production, neutralizes complexion-dulling sebum and brightens dull skin.
White Tea \ Provide antioxidant protection as it soothes skin.
Lecithin Phospholipids \ Important source of essential fatty acids to keep the skin supple. They form a protective film on the skin’s surface to seal in essential moisture.
Lactic Acid \Gentler than most AHAs, Lactic Acid acts as a nourishing brightener and hydrates dull skin.
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (Organic), Propanediol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (Organic), Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactic Acid (L), Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil (Organic), 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Silk, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate (L), Lecithin, Astaxanthin, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Caprylyl Glycol, O-cymen-5-OL, Polysorbate 20, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate
It has a thicker gel texture and a peachy pink hue. While it looks thick it spreads with ease. This is great as a morning cleanser or second cleanse. This has oils, lactic acid, vitamin C, white and green tea & antioxidant powerhouse astaxanthin. So not only is this cleanser low pH which helps keeps your skins barrier intact plus it’s got antioxidants and brighteners. It has an odd scent to it which takes some getting used to. Maybe slight citrus with a bitter edge. It’s a very light scent and it has no artificial fragrance or essential oils. Again I will say this is not drying or stripping to the skin which is what makes it so fabulous. If you like a good gel cleanser that can be used daily I would definitely look into this one.
The 35% Vitamin C + Perfecting Serum is a potent waterless vitamin C serum. Details per Allies of Skin:
Most Vitamin C serums in the market today contain 15% – 30% of Vitamin C and are formulated with water. But our Vitamin C 35% Collagen Rebuilding Serum is the world’s first and only waterless formula with a 35% concentration. Comprising of 25% Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid + 10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, this potent serum is supercharged with a next-generation antioxidant complex comprising of Superoxide Dismutase + Gluthathione, ensuring and strengthening the potency of the Vitamin C while providing additional benefits to the skin.
This daily formula repairs on a cellular level and forms a protective shield against photoaging damage and pollutants while paving the way for brighter, firmer skin. Over time, collagen production is boosted; dark spots are cleared, and skin glows with a brilliant smoothness.
Key Ingredients:
25% Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid \ Pure form of L-Ascorbic Acid in ethylated form that is extremely stable. Penetrates deep into the dermis/skin to provide superior antioxidant protection, stimulate collagen production, rebuild skin barrier and visibly brightens dark spots.
10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate \ Stable oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that penetrates deep into the skin to stimulate collagen production, brighten dark spots and provide free radical protection.
Superoxide Dismutase \ One of the most powerful antioxidants around, Superoxide Dismutase overpowers the damaging reactions of superoxide, and protect the cell from superoxide (the most common free radical in the body) toxicity. As such, it reduces inflammation quickly as well as helps to prevent wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, soften scar tissue and speed up cellular healing.
Glutathione \ One of the most powerful antioxidants around, Glutathione prevents free radical damage and repairs signs of premature ageing. It has the added benefit of brightening skin too.
Ingredients
Ethoxydiglycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Glutathione (L), Superoxide Dismutase, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol.
This comes in a dropper style bottle and it has a dry oil like texture. This combines 25% Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid (ascorbic acid with an eythyl group bonded on) with another vitamin C derivative for a stable formulation. We all know ascorbic acid is the king of vitamin Cs but it oxidizes quickly and can be harsh on skin. This version is a slight derivative that makes it stable with no oxidation but there’s few studies on its overall effectiveness compared to good old l-ascorbic acid. I found from testing multiple brands so far that Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid is my favorite derivative. It’s been the most effective of all of them. Beyond the vitamin Cs this has antioxidant powerhouses glutathione & superoxide dismutase. I found this was best when applied first in a routine before serums/creams. It has that light dry oil texture that sinks in fast. I have been able to use this after toners or essences fine but just before serums otherwise I’ve experienced pilling due to the oil nature. If you let this sink in for one minute all skincare layers well after with no pilling.
I found this very effective at brightening and reducing pigmentation but it was best for me at 3x a week versus daily. This was too powerful to use it daily. I ended up getting some rosacea bumps when I used this daily and felt a bit of irritation but when I cut back down to 3x a week I had no issues with tolerance. It was still very effective at 3x a week usage for brightening and reducing pigmentation. Vitamin C also stimulates collagen production as a bonus. I think this bottle will last quite some time and while it’s pricey it’s worth it. I use about 5 drops on my face and same on my neck. I also love that’s it’s fragrance free.
I’ve been dying to try the Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum for ages. I’ve heard great things about it since its launch. This is a pigmentation fighting serum. Details per Allies of Skin:
This next-generation overnight serum is supercharged with a hardworking blend of 11% Mandelic, Lactic + Salicylic Acid, 8 Brighteners and 7 Antioxidants and Peptides, that treats stubborn pigmentation, melasma, large pores, persistent breakouts, uneven texture and blackheads.
While most AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids) serums focus only on the exfoliation aspect that can sometimes lead to tightness and irritation, this multitasking booster is formulated to not only gently dissolve dead skin cells but also replenish moisture and strengthen the skin’s delicate barrier, with its hydrating blend of Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide and essential fatty acids from Organic Rosehip and Tamanu Oil.
Bakuchiol – a natural alternative to Retinol that’s clinically proven to reduce multiple signs of ageing, significantly reduces roughness and improves skin tone, elasticity, firmness and radiance, while multiple peptides like Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40 and Nonapeptide-1 combats redness caused by inflammation and inhibit the production of melanin.
Key Ingredients:
11% Mandelic + Lactic + Salicylic Acid \ Powerful alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) & Salicylic Acid reduce blemishes and blackheads, refine large pores, speed up cellular renewal, lighten dark spots + melasma while increasing hydration and strengthening the skin’s barrier.
Hyaluronic Acid + Niacinamide \ Promotes the retention of essential moisture while plumping the skin and shielding it against free radicals and environmental stress. Reduces dark spots and strengthens the skin’s barrier.
Organic Rosehip + Tamanu Oil \ Provides superior antioxidant protection, stimulates collagen production and feeds the skin with essential fatty acids, hydration and trace nutrients.
1% Superoxide Dismutase \ One of the most powerful antioxidants around, Superoxide Dismutase overpowers the damaging reactions of superoxide, and protect the cell from superoxide (the most common free radical in the body) toxicity. As such, it reduces inflammation quickly as well as helps to prevent wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, soften scar tissue and speed up cellular healing.
Rumex Occidentalis Extract \ Strong inhibitor of tyrosinase enzymatic activity, one of the main enzymes involved in the pigmentation process. It has higher activity than arbutin, turmeric and hydroquinone and with no unwanted side effects. It safely reduces skin pigmentation by limiting both melanin production and skin reddening for an even skin complexion.
Bakuchiol \ A natural alternative to Retinol and is clinically proven to reduce multiple signs of ageing: significant reduction in roughness and dryness as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It also improves skin tone, elasticity, firmness, radiance, and brightness.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 \ Slow down the skin ageing process. It mimics the body’s own mechanism, simultaneously boosting collagen production and protecting against collagen degradation. It visibly reduces the appearance of wrinkles in age-prone zones, significantly reverses visible signs of photo-ageing damage, rejuvenates and smoothens the skin, refines the appearance of large pores and improves skin firmness and elasticity.
Nonapeptide-1 \ Inhibits the production of melanin. Shows significant brightening effect in 28 days.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40 \ Reduces redness and irritation. It also has a photo-protective effect that reduces cell damage and the harmful effects of skin inflammation.
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Mandelic Acid (L), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Polysorbate 20, Lactic Acid (L), Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Fruit Oil (Organic), Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Salicylic Acid, Bakuchiol (Organic), Superoxide Dismutase, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract, Panthenol (D), Sodium Hyaluronate (L), Rumex Occidentalis Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract, Glutamic Acid (L), Phenyl t-Butylnitrone (Spin Trap), Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether, Tocopheryl Acetate (D-alpha), Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitol, Dextran, Sodium Gluconate, Disodium Succinate, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, O-cymen-5-OL, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol.
This comes in an airless pump that twists open. The is an acid serum combined with peptides for reducing pigmentation. It has both alpha hydroxy acids lactic & mandelic plus salicylic acid. Lactic & mandelic acids help resurface the skin, exfoliate and reduce pigmentation and fine lines/wrinkles. Mandelic acid happens to be really good at reducing pigmentation compared to other AHAs. It’s got a smaller molecular size than glycolic acid (as does lactic acid) which makes it less irritating. Salicylic acid helps clear out the pores. Niacinamide is the ultimate multi-tasker that reduces lines/wrinkles, pigmentation, pore size and it helps strengthen the skins barrier.
This also has hyaluronic acid plus rosehip and tamanu oils. Rosehip is antioxidant packed and brightening while tamanu is soothing and anti-inflammatory. Superoxide dismutase is an antioxidant powerhouse and I love that they include it in many of their products. I think everyone has heard of bakuchiol at this point but the plant has some anti-aging retinol like effects on the skin. You can use this in conjunction with a retinol serum. Western Dock or Rumex Occidentalis is a plant that inhibits tyrosinase enzymatic activity which reduces pigmentation. There’s also a few peptides to reduce redness/irritation, are anti-aging and reduce melanin production.
The serum has a thicker gel texture and a tan color. I found it to be actually quite powerful. I had a hard time using it every night without some irritation. So I used it about 3-5 times a week and that was effective yet curbed the powerful nature of the serum & irritation. I did find I preferred a more gentle retinol while using this. It was too much to have this powerful serum plus a strong retinol. I wanted to use an entire bottle which took at least eight weeks before I wrote this review. After finishing a bottle I can say I did find this serum really really good at reducing pigmentation. I would easily recommend it and repurchase. It may require some dosing and testing to curb irritation but that will be dependent on the person and their skin. I would start slower and build up tolerance. It’s really a great anti-pigmentation serum with other benefits. As I would expect from Allies of Skin.
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