Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream

So Drunk Elephant launched a retinol. A-Passioni Retinol Cream was easily the most hotly anticipated launch from the brand (or the skincare world) in a while. The launch was not without controversy either. If you look up reviews of A-Passioni you’re going to see a wide variety of views. I used it for about eight weeks before writing this review. Details of A-Passioni per Drunk Elephant:

What it is Retinol reimagined. A-Passioni™ Retinol Cream is a clean, cutting-edge formula that combines 1.0% vegan retinol with nourishing, superfood-rich ingredients to dramatically diminish the appearance of fine lines, deep wrinkles and sun damage revealing a vibrant, younger-looking complexion.

What it is formulated to do Retinol and supportive peptides restore bounce, resilience and a brighter clarity to  skin while helping to even skin tone and texture … without the associated redness and irritation. Vitamin F, along with a curated blend of comforting passionfruit, apricot, marula and jojoba oils replenish essential lipids and moisture while antioxidant packed kale, winter cherry and xanthophylls defend against environmental stressors. It’s like a reboot for your skin back to its most healthy, youthful state.

What else you need to know A-Passioni™ is packaged to protect the stability and potency of its light and air-sensitive ingredients. 100% Free of essential oils, silicones and fragrance. A-Passioni is not recommended for use while pregnant or breastfeeding.

Suggested Usage Morning or night, apply a pea-size amount or less to clean, dry face, avoiding the eye area. May be mixed with any Drunk Elephant cream or oil. Limit initial use to once or twice a week, gradually increasing frequency to every other night, and then every night as tolerated. Always use a broad spectrum sunscreen. Avoid eye area. TIP: Mix with B-Hydra™ for an extra shot of hydration and vitamin B.

Key Ingredients:

1.0% retinol a pure form of vegan retinol, is one of the most well-researched ingredients in skincare capable of bringing balance to any skin concern. At a 1.0% concentration, retinol can dramatically improve the look and feel of uneven skin tone and texture, as well as ward off the damage done from daily exposure to UV rays, pollution or other free radicals.

triple peptide blend potent trio of peptides that helps firm and strengthen, boosting the age-fighting benefits of retinol.

winter cherry juice extracted from the seeds of the physalis fruit—not actually a cherry—an exotic native to Egypt that contains more pollution fighting antioxidant carotenoids than any other fruit or vegetable.

kale leaf extract of this superfood is loaded with essential vitamins A and E, supplying skin with powerful antioxidant compounds—think quercetin and beta carotene—along with replenishing plant sterols.

passionfruit, apricot and jojoba oils a curated blend of rich oils with moisturizing and skin-soothing benefits.

marula seed oil a super-absorbable moisturizing oil, high in antioxidants and omegas 6 and 9, that preserves and nourishes your skin while restoring its youthful glow.

xanthophyll potent carotenoid found in plants that exerts powerful defense against aging environmental and electronic-device emitted high energy visible (HEV) light, AKA blue light.

vitamin f soothing fatty acids (linolenic and linoleic) that work to improve skin’s texture, suppleness and help calm signs of sensitivity.

 

Ingredients

Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Stearic Acid, Coconut Alkanes, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Retinol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Chrysin, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Ceramide NP, Xanthophylls, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Jojoba Esters, Physalis Pubescens Fruit Juice, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Carthamus Tinctorium (Safflower) Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Cetyl Palmitate, Trehalose, Lauric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Glucosamine HCL, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Tocopherol, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Hydroxide, Laureth-23, Steareth-20, Propanediol, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin.

So lets start with packaging and texture. This come in a small metal squeeze tube. Not my favorite kind of package nor a lot of others. It’s also not the end of the world either. I know there’s a lot of complaints about the product coming out too fast. That’s true with any squeeze tube but I never really squeezed it hard and it never got messy for me. Squeeze from the end only not the middle. Plus for the first two weeks you don’t even have to squeeze at all, just open the tube and it will come right out. Overall, it was a non-issue for me but I would definitely prefer an airless pump like babyfacial or something so I don’t have to think about it. I’m sure they’ll change it like the did with the Beste cleanser cap that got changed.

The texture is a thicker cream. I’m not usually a fan of retinol creams. Bad experiences with prescription retinol formulas. Lets face it the texture of prescription retinol sucks. It ended up surprising me and being thinner that I thought. It also absorbed into the skin pretty well. It didn’t sit on top and feel heavy which is what I hated about the prescription types. It does add a heavy cream layer so you need to adjust your routine accordingly. I much prefer retinol serums because they’re so easy to use. A-Passioni has oils and humectants in order to help balance out the drying effects of retinol I assume.

So lets talk about retinol in general. Retinol, retinoids or retinal are all forms of vitamin A which accelerate skin cell turnover leading to a rejuvenated complexion. Retinol is the gold standard in skincare because it helps with everything-lines, wrinkles, uneven texture and skin tone, dullness. You name it retinol helps. It’s your anti-aging power house ingredient. It ranges from prescription strength to over the counter. Retinol and other forms have to be converted by enzymes in the skin to become vitamin A aka retinoic acid. Only as this last product retinoic acid can retinol work on the skin.

Here’s the basic conversion:

Retinyl palmitate > Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic acid

So the closer you get to retinoic acid the more effective it is. They all have far less irritation or side effects than prescription retinoic acid. Retinol with a 0.5-1% strength is considered high strength. So A-Passioni at 1% is as high as it gets for OTC (Over the Counter/non-prescription). This is not an uncommon strength and it’s legal as an OTC product. Paula’s Choice has two 1% products as well. In general there is no bigger ingredient more misunderstood and with more myths than retinol (well maybe vitamin C but that’s for another day).

Drunk Elephant recommends applying this alone or mixing if you wish. The mixing was part of the controversy over this product. There should be no controversy over mixing retinol with a cream, oil or hydrating serum. That can actually make it more tolerable for many sensitive skin types. There is retinol in premade creams, oils and serums so this is nothing new. Those types of retinols are all effective too. Mixing it with a cream, oil or serum just puts a bit less of the product on your skin. It dilutes it a bit. You might apply half the amount of retinol if you mix it versus double if you need to spread it evenly on your face as a single layer. So those with sensitive skin may be able to use a retinol more often or even daily if it’s mixed. If you want to mix it go ahead, if you don’t then don’t. Do what works for you and your skin.

Retinol can be used day or night. I prefer mine at night but you can use it in the day if you wish. You need to use sunscreen regardless what time of day you apply retinol. Many believe retinol exfoliates the skin. Retinol is actually an antioxidant that has many skin restoring benefits by improving cell communication. Flaking is a side effect and has nothing to do with retinol being an exfoliant. You can generally keep flaking to a minimum by using a lower strength retinol or reduce how often you use it. Not everyone can use retinol daily or use a 1% concentration. This is why mixing it with oil, cream or a hydrating serum might lessen the side effects for some making it more tolerable for them.

Now it was also suggested that A-Passioni could be mixed with C-Firma or TLC Framboois serums. This caused a major uproar by many. There’s a controversy that retinol can’t be combined with vitamin C. There’s been some research showing that retinol is actually more effective when paired with vitamin C. Kat Burki has a Retin-C Treatment Complex actually sells the two premixed together in a night treatment (the scandal). I’ve tried it and it’s a fabulous serum, very effective. A lot of the vitamin C/retinol controversy is about pH changes and retinol being rendered ineffective when combined with the low pH required of vitamin C.

This leads into retinol with AHA/BHA exfoliants. It has the same pH controversy as vitamin C does as both vitamin C and acid exfoliants require a low pH for effectiveness. I know some who alternate acids and retinol for fear they don’t work together and the acid renders the retinol ineffective. I’ll include this link to Paula’s Choice HERE as they discuss it well. Retinol is more high tech now and the encapsulation process makes retinol more stable. I think retinol combos will be constantly controversial. Everyone has a different opinion on the subject. I think there’s also a big group of people who don’t use both an acid product and retinol in the same night more for sensitive skin reasons. Both can cause adverse reactions in sensitive skin and using both on the same night may make this worse for some (not everyone).

Retinol can cause flaking, dryness and some purging when first starting use or switching retinol brands. I find these side effects are more of an issue with stronger retinols. I got a hint of purging and a fair amount of dryness with A-Passioni. No flaking. Always start a new retinol 1-2 times a week then work up to every other day and if your skin can handle it you can do daily. I started by actually mixing this with a hydrating serum every other night for a week then was able to use it daily. I stopped mixing it after two weeks and applied it straight from the tube. That did increase the dryness I was experiencing. When I mixed it again with a hydrating serum the dryness stopped but the effects were still good.

The key with retinol is being able to use it consistently. If you need to mix it to use it daily you’re more likely to get a better effect than if you use it once a week straight out of the tube. Stronger is not always better. Using it consistently is key. So part of why I disagree with everyone who said you can’t mix this is because it is effective even when mixed and if it reduces the side effects to allow consistent use, then do it. Again do what works for you and your skin.

Personally I use retinol and acids at night, every night. I have no issue using them in the same routine. It’s said acids help pave the way for retinol to be more effective. I apply my acids first right after cleansing and toning. Then I move onto hydrating & treatment serums. I layer my retinol last before oils and creams. I tend to apply my retinol separate from other products as my skin can normally do the formula as intended. However there are a ton of people who can’t do this. Anyone with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions has to be more careful.

There are a ton of formulas out there that sell retinol & acids premixed. Kate Somerville and Alph-H Power Pack for example. There are many more. Just google it. Retinol mixed with acids is not a new Drunk Elephant controversy. Plenty of other people sell those combo products already. Some just likes to jump on the Drunk Elephant bandwagon when they launch something new (I have my own opinions about the marketing as well but that’s a whole separate debate. This is about the ingredients and product). However I do like to have my acids separate from retinol. I really prefer my retinol separate in a serum format because I like to change my routine based on daily needs if required. Having separates makes that easier for me. It’s not because they can’t be mixed.

I would mix a retinol with vitamin C as I haven’t seen anything leading me to believe that this would be the end of the world. For anyone with sensitive skin I might be careful because ascorbic acid like in C-Firma can be harsh on some skins (especially sensitive). My skin loves ascorbic acid but many people can’t tolerate it. While they can be mixed it’s not my preference. My personal preference is acid toner and vitamin C in the morning with retinol and acid serum at night. Just for reference I am not sensitive at all, my skin is like a rock most the time. I wouldn’t suggest that many acids/actives for everyone, it just happens to work for me. Again, do what works for you and your skin, not what works for someone else. Skincare layering is truly an art. It takes a while to figure out what your skin needs and wants, not what someone tells you to do because that’s their thing. What works for me may not work for you.

There’s a lot of discussing around needing to apply an acid, vitamin C or retinol by itself and let it sit for 20-40 minutes before moving on in your routine in order for it to be most effective. I used to believe that. I no longer do. It’s another one of those things that someone tells you and then it just gets perpetuated as truth. It’s never come from any kind of real evidence. It ultimately comes from all the pH controversies. There is no other more confusing part to skincare than layering and pH. It enough to make any skincare enthusiast go nuts. Constantly having the do’s and don’t of pH and layering in your head when doing your routine.

Apply your layers and just let it sink in for a minute then move on. Your skincare will still work. Mixing a pH of 3.7 then following a minute later with a pH of 5 won’t make a difference in that short period of time on your skin. If you let a layer absorb for one minute and move onto the next it still works. Plus if you logically think about it, you would have to use a really high pH or very alkaline product to disrupt the low pH of vitamin C or an acid in that short period of time on your skin. It’s not really logical. There’s a great discussion about it HERE. I used to wait after vitamin C, acids and retinol every routine. I then gave up on it and just let the layers absorb into the skin for 1-2 minutes and move on to the next layer. I have noticed no difference whatsoever from the switch. None. The only difference is I have my sanity and more free time. A lot of the pH debacle is based on old research and with the new technology (like encapsulated retinol) we have it’s not the same anymore.

So yes the traditional view of retinol is apply it alone and let it sit for a while. But retinol can be mixed and still be effective. Mixing may allow people with more sensitive skin be able to use it more consistently with less side effects. If you want to use it by itself do it, if you want to mix it, do that too. Everyone can tailor retinol to work best for their skin. The key is figuring out what works for you and tailoring it to be able to use retinol consistently. That’s what gives the best results from retinol. Retinol is a very personal product. What works for one doesn’t work for everyone. You need to figure out how it works for you. You may also need to change how you use a retinol with every new one you try because they can all have different nuances to them.

I think this is a pretty powerful retinol cream. I think it was seen that people who just jumped right into this one without doing the slow approach had bad side effects like flaking and irritation. That doesn’t mean the retinol is bad, only that you need to start slower or perhaps mix it. Sensitive skin still may not be able to use it at all due to the high 1% strength. I think mixing it with a hydrating serum at first will help many, plus starting slow. Some retinols you can jump right into, this one was one to most definitely take the slow and caution approach with. A-Passioni is a nice powerful retinol, I got great results from it. I didn’t get into the extras in the formula. You can read the description and they’re really just gravy on the retinol anyway.